Favorite Travel Quotes

"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts."
-- Mark Twain
Innocents Abroad

"Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey." -- Fitzhugh Mullan

"A good traveler has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving." -- Lao Tzu

Archive for the 'RV Travel' Category

Old Sturbridge Village – Children’s Week

posted: August 13th, 2010 | by:Bert

Flute-3©Bert Gildart: Old Sturbridge Village in Massachusetts is always an attraction but this week the draw for Janie and me has been particularly compelling. Family children have been attending a camp in which teachers have been sharing skills needed to farm in a village set between 1790 and 1840.

Back dropped by horse drawn carriages, covered bridges, cobblers, blacksmiths and a host of other period attractions, we watched as children demonstrated a few things they’d learned during the week-long summer camp.

Two of Janie’s grandchildren, Cassie and Griff, danced yesterday, and so did two of their cousins, Dominic and Cordelia. All had learned their lessons well, but the ambiance helped with the enthusiasm.

First, the two girls were both dressed in bonnets and long dresses. The young men were dressed in dark pants laced in the rear for a continued fit. They wore suspenders and straw hats.

As well, a man who looked as though he had just stepped out of one of the log cabins provided the music. He was dressed in a derby hat and he played a flute, and as he played, the children performed three different dances, all taken from a far-off age.

VILLAGE LIFE

Meanwhile all other village life went on as it would during a normal day from the early 1800s, something I later learned with Piper, another of Janie’s grandchildren who did not want to leave after the dancing was over. Neither did I so the two of us wandered the village for about an hour as her parents took care of other business. Looking like a little princess, Piper opened several doors of conversation.


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Click to See Larger Image. L to R: Griff, Dominic, Cordelia, Cassie; Griff, Dominic; Children visiting Old Strubridge; Cordelia and Cassie.

The blacksmith took a liking to her and selected her from the audience to help him with his work. Piper pulled the bellows that intensified the flames. He gave her a hammer and asked her to help him create a hook.  He explained techniques and then advised us not to try and take the device aboard a plane, “if you are flying.” I asked him if I might take pictures and he said OK, as long as I’d take one “with Piper.”

Moving on, we stopped to see the cobbler, and he explained how he made shoes and where the leather came from.

RETURN WILL BE NECESSARY

Because we only had an hour, we were unable to see all of Old Sturbridge, which contains 59 historic buildings all set on 200 acres. Nor were we able to ride the old stagecoach, but we did “meet” a number of the farm animals, which included a demonstration of the way in which farmers once handled oxen.


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Click to See Larger Image. L to R: Piper and blacksmith; Dominic — right out of a 1790 setting; Cobbler; oxen demonstration.

 

Because there is so much to see, we’ll be returning. In fact, on previous visits to Sturbridge, Massachusetts we’ve taken in the old village each time, a place we never tire of seeing. Yesterday with the children, of course, was special.


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THIS TIME LAST YEAR:

*Chicken Alaska


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A Park Celebrating TR, One We Never Bypass

posted: July 20th, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: It’s impossible for us to pass near Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota and not make the 50-mile detour south to camp there, even if it is only for a night. This year we particularly wanted to see these Badlands because everything seems so lush. We were not disappointed.

The park is divided into a North Unit and a South Unit, but this time around we only had time for only the North Unit, which is separated from the South Unit by about 30 miles. Over the years I’ve written about six stories for a variety of magazines and done so because this isolated area grows on you, celebrating as it does grasslands, buffalo, wild horses – and the rugged life of Theodore Roosevelt.

ROOSEVELT SAID BADLANDS MADE HIM PRESIDENT

After settling into a campsite we drove the park road to the Little Missouri Overlook and I was reminded that once Roosevelt had marched two thieves to justice along this river, staying awake reading Leo Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina. Later he remarked that Karenina was unprincipled.  He also said in later years that “If it had not been for my days in the Badlands of North Dakota I would never have been president of the United States.”

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Little Missouri flowing through badlands lush with an abundance of vegetation not often seen.

 


Roosevelt also found solace here, having fled to these very same badlands shortly after his wife and mother died on the same exact day; and as I looked over the expanse of badlands I could see how one might simultaneously find physical challenge and peace. Before me the river flowed serenely and the expanse of lush vegetation that rolled over the Badlands on our July visit offered a sense of well being. But the Badlands that backdropped the Little Missouri could also offer hardship, something one is instantly aware of when the winds wail and when you struggle to climb a steep hill on a day temperatures approach the hundred degree mark.

On this brief stop, however, Janie and I saw only the most benevolent side. The river flowed clear and blue, bison starred back from shaded bluffs, and soft breezes caressed a multitude of flowers and grasses that bowed and dipped on this mild mid summer day.

And now, we’re back on the highway sufficiently rejuvenated to cope with another few days of highway travel.


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THIS TIME THREE YEARS AGO:

*The Park That Made a President

 

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In the spring, the Fort Peck hatchery relies on a group of volunteers (The Walleye Program) to extract eggs and milt from walleye. This year, 150 volunteers helped take eggs.

First, they set out nets, then they extracted the eggs. From this process over 58.2 million “green” walleye eggs were taken from wild walleye and brought into the new Fort Peck hatchery. Eggs are brought back to the hatchery in heavy fish bags.

 

After eggs are brought into the hatchery, they are subjected to a number of different procedures. Milt of the males is subjected to a sperm extender, something like sugary water. Because welleye eggs become sticky when fertilized, “we use diatomaceious earth to eliminate the stickiness. Without this procedure, the fertilized eggs would stick to the jars, into whihch they are then placed.

 

After eggs are placed into the jars, they are then water hardened, and this makes the eggs so they are so hard, they can be literally bounced off the floor, they’re that tough. Walleye are placed into a about 40 ponds and then are planted into the reservoir. At this time, B.J. says they are little more then “two eyeballs and a tail.”

 

Fertilized eggs remain in jars for about 10 days, then the fingerlings remain in jars for about 10 days. Sometime during this period, the fingerlings migrate to the top of the jars, then follow conduits to large holding tanks in which they remain until they are ready to be placed into one of the 40 outside holding tanks, or until they are ready to be placed into Fort Peck Reservoir. Ponds are prepared for the arrival of fingerlings about two weeks before they arrive. Technicians fill the tanks about two weeks before their arrival and this allows zooplankton to establish itself. Zooplankton includes the microscopic cocapods and the equally tiny amoeba.

 

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Serendiptitous Stops

posted: July 18th, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: Back on our the road, heading east, but not until after we checked out a spot on the Charles M. Russell Wildlife Refuge for burrowing owls. We did see one and it was in the very same area where I found one several years ago. Though I was unable to photograph it this time around, I did on my last trip, so I’m including it with this brief post. The image was made with a Nikon camera and a 600mm lens. I also used a blind, which I always carry. Sometime it obscures my presence, sometimes it doesn’t.


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Burrowing owl, a common resident of the Charles M. Russell Wildlife Refuge

 


Before departing Fort Peck I also made a ten mile bicycle trip from the campground, past the Visitor Center and then up a steep hill that then crosses the massive dam. Ten miles later, I completed a very enjoyable and informative round-trip ride.

LARGEST OF ITS KIND

Once this was the largest earth filled dam in the world, but that title was usurped several years ago when Russia constructed such a dam of their own. Nevertheless, the Corps proudly proclaims that Fort Peck remains the largest hydrologically-filled earth dam in the world.

Because the dam is earth filled I had to remind myself that I was in fact riding over a dam, but interpretive panels along the way remind you that the land is certainly altered. Lewis and Clark camped here in May of 1803 and when they did, one member of the party encountered a grizzly bear. As well, members saw their first moose in a place called Dry Fork, which I could easily see as I cycled across the dam.

DAM NOT WITHOUT TRAGEDY

Though most say the dam was needed at the time – and is still needed, all of which may be true – the dam was not without its tragedies, as the other image I’m posting with this blog so informs us.  In September of 1938, eight men perished one day in a massive slide. Two of the bodies were found, but six remain forever entombed in the mud and rock of Fort Peck.


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Construction of Fort Peck included tragic moments and now memories

 

BACK ON ROAD:  Though we are now back on Highway Two camped for the night in Rugby, North Dakota, which city fathers here say is the geographical center of North America, we did make one overnight stop in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. It is one of my favorite parks and deserves some mention even though our stay was brief – which I’ll provide in my next post. Today, we’re scurrying around trying to get back on the road and make up for our serendipitous stops.


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THIS TIME LAST YEAR:

*Chena Hot Springs


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For Some, Fort Peck Has It All

posted: July 15th, 2010 | by:Bert

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T. Rex at Fort Peck Visitor Center

©Bert Gildart: For those of you wondering about my delinquency in posting let me start by saying that we’ve been consumed with packing for an extended trip east, now underway. Compound that with our current location in  eastern Montana, and, here, the remote setting makes Internet connectivity sporadic. As well, we’ve been scurrying around — getting reacquainted with Fort Peck, one of  our favorite areas in the state.

Fort Peck is sandwiched between Wolf Point, Montana, and the eastern edge of the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge. To some that means you’re in the middle of a vast monochrome of desiccated grasslands, but if you settle in for awhile, the land grows on you.

FIRST COVER OF LIFE MAGAZINE

For starters, Fort Peck is contiguous with the huge Fort Peck Lake, more properly designated a reservoir, but one that now features some of the state’s best fishing. Once the dam creating the reservoir was a WPA work project, part of FDR’s New Deal. It was intended to extricate a hungry nation from the Great Depression of the 1930s.

The men who worked here for a period of about seven years helped to create such a colorful chapter in America’s history that Fort Peck Dam served as the very first cover of Life Magazine. The photographer was Margaret Bourke White, and she was associated with others who have become some of my journalistic heroes and heroines.

Ms. White was married to Erskin Caldwell, who wrote God’s Little Acre and Tobacco Road. Her photos, which constituted a story “Saturday Night In Montana,” were accompanied by a story written by Ernie Pyle, subsequently famous as a war correspondent.

The dam was constructed between 1933 and September 22 of 1938, and if one were suddenly transported to some lofty position high overhead, the Fort Peck Dam work area must have looked like a mound crawling with ants. Ten thousand men worked here and with their families, the number rose to 50,000 people, living in places such as New Deal, Square Deal, McCone City, Roosevelt – and of course, Fort Peck.

T-REX

Since those days other significant things have happened in the area, most notably the discovery that the eroding lands have been revealing past occupancy. Some years ago, a fossil of Tyrannosaurus rex was discovered about 20 miles southeast of the center, meaning that about 60 million years ago this was dinosaur country.


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Click to see larger images. L to R:  Michele Fromdahl, Fort Peck Interpretive Center Director; J. R. Rasmusan, fishing guide extraordinaire; bison in nearby wildlife paddock.

Subsequent to the discovery paleontologists began exploring the much eroded landscape and soon learned that the area contains one of the world’s richest of fossil areas. With that discovery, and the fact that the area was loaded with human history and was adjacent to one of the largest national wildlife refuges in the lower 48 states, the Corps decided to construct an elaborate and immensely informative visitor center.

Today, the visitor center informs on both the area’s human history and its natural history. It explains the function of the dam. As well, the same lands administered by the Corps of Engineers provide what Janie and I have come to believe is the nation’s very best campground.

MECCA FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS

From the spacious campground, Janie and I have explored the adjacent Charles M. Russell Wildlife Refuge, fished the reservoir, explored the “birding trail,” and traveled the Dinosaur Trail. For me, photography figures into this equation, and each time I come here I try and create new images, and have done exactly that this time around. With the exception of my fishing photograph of J.R. Rasmuson, all images posted here are from our current visit.

Put in other words, if you stop here you’ll see exhibits of dinosaurs; you’ll see bison roaming a huge bison paddock; and you’ll see the glimmer of night lights produced by the dam’s huge turbines that now help power five different states.


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Click for larger images.  L to R: Night images of generator towers, which work to supply power for five states.

 

That’s only for starters, and in another day or so, we may post a few of my birding images, taken on the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge.

Indeed, this is a Mecca for those with a yen for outdoor explorations.


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THIS TIME LAST YEAR:

*Art from World Eskimo Indian Olympics


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World Eskimo Indian Olympics — Story

posted: July 8th, 2010 | by:Bert

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Image of Manny Curtis shot with extreme ISO setting

©Bert Gildart: This month’s issue of Native Peoples Magazine features a story of mine about the World Eskimo Indian Olympics (WEIO). The magazine is on the newsstand and is now reminding me of what an adventure Janie and I had last July in Fairbanks, Alaska, where the event is held annually.

The story was illustrated with my images and because I worked so hard obtaining the pictures thought I’d share some in this posting. With the exception of several of the pictures that focused on the arts from remote villages, all were action images and several were taken with natural light but at incredibly high ISOs.

ISO is the digital equivalent of ASA in film, and for those of you who can remember way back to the year 2000 when film was still in vogue, you’ll recall that when you used Ektachrome 400, grain started to appear and could be a real problem. Not so with digital images, which you can further enhance using Lightroom and PhotoShop.

The image of Manny Curtis was taken at an ISO of 2000 while the one of Clyde Brown was taken at an ISO of 800. In the magazine, there is no grain and the colors are intense.

UPCOMING TRAVELS

Janie and I are departing in several days for the East Coast for a number of reasons. We’ll be visiting family in New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts and Washington, D.C. Along the way we’ll be gathering material for a number of stories. After Labor Day, we’ll pull our Airstream to Shenandoah National Park and spend about a month updating a book published by Globe Pequot about hiking and exploring this beautiful park. The book is going into its fourth printing and we have sold over 24,000 copies, which is pretty good for an outdoor book.

Rich Luhr and family may join us in their Airstream in Shenandoah in September and if so, we plan to climb Old Rag, the park’s highest peak. Though not particularly difficult (at least, Rich, for a man 20-plus years your senior!), what makes the ascent so meaningful is the ancient rock. The rock reposes near the summit and dates back to the Precambrian.

As we make our journey back east we may stop for a night in Wisconsin and revisit a lovely couple whom we’ve gotten to know from the Airstream crowd. Ken and Petie Faber are also an extremely talented couple, and they’ve been here in Bigfork the past few days.

Clyde Brown

Clyde Brown dancing at openng ceremonies of World Eskimo Indian Olympics, Fairbanks, AK.

Ken is a retired insurance man and now devotes his time to refurbishing old Airstreams, creating what the industry calls “Vintage Airstreams.” Petey is a retired teacher and now an artist extraordinaire. Though they are a few years older than Janie and I, they are active cyclists, and think little of striking off on a 50-mile day-long trip.

CIRCLE OF FRIENDS

There are some other good people we’d like to visit along our way, several of whom we rendezvoused with this past winter in Anza Borrego. And then, too, we have family in Minnesota, but we’ll just have to see how our serendipitous travels unfold. Several story assignments are pending and if they work out then our route may change, meaning that we’ll have to try and make stops on the way back.

Life, however, is about the present, but because it benefits from the past, I’m hoping my WEIO images stir some atavistic recollections, which is what the four-day event is intended, at least in part, to evoke.

The event has become one of our favorite memories not only because of the superb athletes, but also because we were able to revisit so many wonderful native peoples, whom we count as very good friends.

See you from along the road.


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THIS TIME LAST YEAR:

*World Eskimo Indian Olympics


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Though Enticing New Blood, Airstream Helps Many Age Gracefully

posted: June 6th, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: Judging from the number of people who hung around after the two programs I gave this past week at Rich Luhr’s Alumapalooza Airstream Trailer rally, I have to assume the presentations were successful. My feelings were reinforced by thoughts shared by those who specifically sought me out during the three and one half days I spent at the week-long rally at the Jackson Center in Ohio.

Brett (Rich’s co-producer) introduced me as “a much published writer/photographer who had contributed to every single issue of Airstream Life since its inception about six years ago.”

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Airstream Factory tour

 

My first program at Alumapalooza was about national parks and Glacier’s Centennial, the latter of which included a retrospective on grizzly bears. The second program concerned photo techniques, and following the presentation many said they hoped I might do the same next year but include a field seminar in which we’d all take images — and then compare.

ALUMAPALOOZA

Of course, none of this would have been possible had it not been for the successful program Rich and Brett put together. First, Alumapalooza was set next to the site where Airstreams are manufactured, and I am sure that over the course of the week, all attendees, who probably totaled 400, took in the factory tour.

I’m also sure that all who could summon up the energy included seminars as part of their daily itinerary. Such talks included presentations on Towing, Vintage Airstreams, Riveting, Airstreaming in Europe, Fulltiming, Bowlus Trailers, as well as many others.

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Visiting early Airstream models; Ken and Petey Faber, “living little”; Rich and Brett presiding over “Open House.”


Because I was in Jackson for such a short period of time, and because I was traveling back and forth between a hotel and the convention grounds (I had to fly because of personal time constraints), I was unable to attend some of the talks, to include one on Route 66 and another on Yoga. Still, I met these presenters, and because of luck with timing was able to spend a little time with each of these people.


Through this luck, which I’ll categorize as a “random sample,” I concluded that the Airstream group as a whole is adventurous, excited about life in general, exceedingly curious, and loves to travel.

“SAMPLED” COUPLES

Specifically, I spent time with Ken and Petey Faber, a delightful couple who after retiring from one career, subsequently turned to restoring older Airstreams creating Vintage Airstreams,  “Mostly,”  said Petey,  “small ones. We live little,” she laughed.

As well Ken and Petey gave a seminar on Route 66, and they have traveled this romantic old historic route in its entirely, from Chicago, Illinois, to Los Angeles, California.


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sKY & slaDE “fulltime” in their 34-foot Airstream Classic doing two things: Sky diving and teaching Yoga, but with a twist.

 

“sKY & slaDE” was another other couple with whom I spent time, and though they call themselves “Yoga Instructors,” in reality they are much more. Both are sky divers, and sKY (as she configures her name) has made about 1,300 jumps, while slaDE (as he configures his name), has made about 700. As I later learned, the couple also yet another blog, with postings that completely concur with my own environmental philosophy.  Take time to scroll down and you’ll also find lots of Airstream maintenance.

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Adam examining predecessor of more conventional Airstream

I met the couple Friday, the day of my departure — and unfortunately at the end of one of their performances — but they offered to provide a demonstration in front of their 34-foot, 60th Anniversary Limited Edition 1991 Airstream Trailer. Their routine combined gymnastics with yoga and demonstrated not only great agility but also great strength.

LOVE YOU ADAM AND SUE!

Actually, the one couple with whom I spent the greatest amount of time was Adam and Sue, whom I again owe a debt of gratitude. Last summer I threw my back out as we were climbing the Chilkoot Pass in Alaska. Being the compassionate folks they are, they took the majority of items from my pack enabling me to hobble out with the aid of my trekking poles. (Note: my doctor says it was just plain bad luck and that I should definitely try again.)

And now, this past week, they gave me a place to hang out after the frantic flight from Montana to Ohio and the discombobulating sense associated with the acclimation to strange faces milling in new places — and the recoup time needed after seminars. So thank you once again, Adam and Sue!  I love you both!

Because of the life style Janie and I have followed, in the 12 years we have been Airstreaming we have never before attended a rally, but after meeting so many delightful people and learning so much we may try working more into our future. Certainly the community of Airstream enthusiasts (many are retired) know how to age gracefully using a premier form of travel. But more significantly, Airstream has a history and certainly a cache. As well, it seems that there is an adequate infusion of young blood into this “niche group” so I have faith the market will not stagnate.

Regrets? Only that I didn’t allow more time and that Janie wasn’t with me to share.

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THIS TIME THREE YEARS AGO:

*Natchez Trace National Parkway


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Memorial Day and Upcoming Travels To Airstream Rally

posted: May 31st, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: Here are a few images that should help us recall the incredible sacrifices our soldiers have made over the years. They include images commemorating soldiers from the Civil War and from WW II.

The cornfield image recalls the general location at Antietam National Battlefield where 21,000 soldiers charged through stands of corn only to be mowed down by opposing forces as they stepped into the open. The Church recalls where a brief truce was declared at Antietam so that Confederates and Union soldiers could collect their dead and administer to the wounded. Nowhere in the history of our nation have so many perished in the course of a single day.

The World War II images are both from Washington D.C. and celebrate our Capitol Parks. Both memorials are relatively new and the one of nurses recall their contributions to the military.

The night shot with the Lincoln Memorial in the back is the newest of the memorials and commemorates veterans of WW II.


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Click to See Larger Version of Each Image

Over the years I’ve posted blogs about Memorial Day and about my absolute devotion to our men in uniform. For the most part, the men and women who have given their lives have fought for our country and have done so without regard to their own political beliefs, and so should be honored in that way, which I hope my blogs of the past (Blog one, blog 2) suggest.


ALUMAPALOOZA

And now let me say that I’ll be away from home for the next few days, flying on Tuesday to Jackson Ohio to give “Slide” presentations for an International Airstream gathering, organized by Rich Luhr of Airstream Life Magazine. He calls this gathering  “Alumapalooza.”

One program will concern our national parks (see: Airstream Camping tips) with much emphasis placed on Glacier National Park now celebrating its centennial. In the program I’ll also be talking about Glacier’s grizzly bears and how things have changed for the better since the tragic maulings in 1967 when two girls were fatally mauled.

The other program will concern photography, and naturally I look forward during these presentations to seeing some of the Airstream enthusiasts with whom I’ve become friends. As well, I’m hoping to make new friends at the convention and hope those with whom I share mutual interests won’t hesitate to hang around after the program. I’ll be returning home Friday, the day after my second presentation, and be reporting on the trip soon thereafter.

Looking forward to Airstream Life’s Alumapalooza 2010 — and  all the activities planned for this big rally…


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THIS THREE  YEARS AGO:

*In Defense of Dandelions


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Oregon Grape Heralds Spring in Glacier National Park

posted: May 25th, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: In about a week I’ll be departing Montana, flying to Jackson, Ohio, to make several “slide” presentations for Rich Luhr’s Aluma Palooza, a huge international gathering of Airstream Travel trailers.


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When Oregon Grape appears in Montana, warm days are not far behind.


One of my presentations will concern photography, and a portion of the talk will certainly include a bit about capturing images of flowers, generally a popular subject. Spring is a good time for such talks as the season is always crowned with beautiful displays, and one of those is beginning to occur right now not only in our back yard, but also in Glacier National Park. In our wooded property a particularly colorful  species  is growing at the base of several Douglas Fir trees.

OREGON GRAPE

Right now Oregon Grape is putting out a dazzling florescence of yellow, and there are two ways to capture this beauty: you can use strobes (also see: strobes & mushrooms), or you can wait until natural conditions are just right and then take your picture. This morning, there was no breeze, the sun was muted by clouds reducing harsh shadows,  so rather than using strobes as I often do to simulate such lighting, I set my camera on a tripod, attached a cable release so there would be absolutely no camera movement, set my f-stop to f-25 for depth of field and the shutter speed to .6 of a second. Then I depressed the cable release (no camera movement),  and because there wasn’t even the hint of a breeze  the slow shutter speed worked perfect. No part of the plant is blurred by movement of any kind and the depth of field reveals detail throughout.

Since college, Oregon Grape has been one of my favorite plant species. In a Montana State University botany class we were required to make a plant collection of spring wild flowers and then take one from that collection and describe it in detail. I selected Oregon Grape and my research revealed that the plant has antibiotic and anticancer properties. Scientists have discovered that the plant also contains properties effective in speeding recovery from giardia, candida, viral diarrhea, and from cholera.

In the fall, grapes can be harvested and used for making a tart but very palatable grape jelly. Though I’ve never had the opportunity to try the jelly others I know have, and they say it is tasty.

The species grows throughout the United States and Canada in cool, damp climates, and though not the first spring species to rear it head, is not far behind. Here in Montana, it is always a welcome sight, for it indicates that warm days are not far behind.

Hurray!


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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO

*Spring Time In Glacier National Park


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Despite “Spring” Weather, Writer’s Convention Great Success

posted: May 6th, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: Last week Janie and I parked our Airstream  at Seeley Lake while attending the annual convention of the Northwest Outdoor Writer’s Association of America (NOWA). The conference was held at the Double Arrow Resort, a beautiful facility just a few miles south of our quiet mountain camp.

During our three-day convention we took advantage of field trips, and seminars, and we visited with a number of members with whom we’ve become good friends.


SeeleyLake

Swan Mountain Range reflects in Seeley Lake

 


Because of harsh weather, many of the events were cancelled, but Janie and I managed to squeeze in a trip to the Blackfoot Clearwater Wildlife Management Range. Biologist Tom Toman served as an excellent guide, rehashing the history of wildlife in North America. He said the antelope is one of the few “game” mammals that actually evolved here.

BEARS EVOLVED IN ASIA

Black bears, he said, evolved in Asia and then crossed the Baring Land Mass about 200,000 years ago. He said that elk and grizzlies are relative new comers, having arrived here 20,000 years ago.

Despite the timing, both species of bears evolved from a common stock known as Ursus etruscus. Those ancient forerunners that happened to wind up in the forests learned to climb trees and so came to have more passive temperaments, characterized by today’s black bear.


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Tom Toman discusses history of elk managment Blackfoot/Clearwater area.



Those that wound up in the prairies and plains of Asia had to protect their young by being aggressive. Obviously the ones that were the strongest — and most aggressive — ruled the day, and survived to perpetuate their own. Eventually, they became the mighty grizzly bear.

LIGHTROOM “MOST USEFUL” PHOTO EDITING PROGRAM

Regarding seminars, the NOWA convention offered many to include talks on book publishing, magazine writing and photography. Tim Christie, a college instructor from the University of North Idaho, said the Lightroom program was his most useful program, agreeing with two other good friends, Todd Campbell of Boise, Idaho (embedded in story about bears), and Rich Charpentier of Prescott, Arizona. Both these men are excellent photographers.

Also attending the NOWA convention were several sponsors. Jack Rich, a local area outfitter, claimed the distinction of early-day Montana ancestry, and in his case, an ancestor of much distinction. Tom’s great uncle, a Mr. Donne, was a member of the Washburn/Langford/Donne expedition of 1870 which explored an massive section of land just south of Bozeman, Montana. The region was rich with wildlife and all these critters were backdropped by incredible hot springs and immense geysers. Expedition members were so enamored that after nine months of exploration decided that this particular region should not be commercialized but rather be set aside for the enjoyment of all Americans. Image how such a suggestion would be received today! Two years later, this section of Wyoming and Montana was set aside as the world’s first national park, now known as Yellowstone National Park.

Weather wise, the spirits worked against us; still the rain and snow combination broke up soon enough for most conference attendees to return home accompanied by favorable weather.

Airstream

Plagued by rain and snow, NOWA convention still kept members jumping

 

Some had hundreds of miles to travel, but for us, the drive was short. Seventy miles later we were back home, and our timing was good, for immediately upon our return snow commenced falling once again and really hasn’t stopped. But there’s a flip side, and that is that the mountains  now glow and have a primordial look that reminds us why we continue to make Montana our sanctuary, our home when we’re not traveling.


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THIS TIME LAST YEAR:

*EIGHTEEN YEAR RETROSPECTIVE

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World Trade Center 19 Years Ago Today

posted: May 4th, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: Nineteen years ago today, Janie and I were married at my sister’s in Poughkeepsie, New York.  Somehow Forrest, my brother-in-law, managed to obtain  reservations for us at the World Trade Center where we stayed the night of May 4th, 1991.  Janie and I both enjoy Broadway hits, so that night we took in CATS. As well, we dined in the restaurant once located at the top of one of the  Twin Towers.

Obviously we’re saddened that we can no longer return to the World Trade Center. But our sadness is obscured by the immense tragedy of lives lost subsequent to the bombing on 9/11 and the way in which the lives of so many others were forever altered.

We’re reminded of the World Trade Center certainly because we honeymooned there, but also because of the recent car bombing attempt in Times Square.  From the Internet, I’ve just learned that an alleged perpetrator has been apprehended. Now, if we could only bring Osama Bin Laden to justice, alive  — or dead!


DesertToast

Nineteen years of travel since departing the World Trade Center, much with our Airstream

 

SHIFTING TO UPBEAT NOTE

On a more upbeat note, since departing New York and returning to Montana, our lives have been made incredibly rich with many travels, and for those interested in a sampling, simply click on the months located in the archives to the right of this post.

A few highlights might include experiences in the Arctic (boating Adventure) and the travels throughout Canada (Kayaking Bay of Fundy) and the U.S. (Dry Tortugas) in our Airstream.

We are now accepting congratulatory  thoughts.


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Snow – We Can’t Escape It!

posted: May 1st, 2010 | by:Bert

NOWA

Snow, we can't escape it!

©Bert Gildart: Try as we might, it seems impossible to escape winter (see-1; see-2). At the moment, we’re attending a writer’s conference, specifically, the Northwest Outdoor Writer’s Association, an affiliate of the Outdoor Writer’s Association of America.

This year, our chapter has convened at Seeley Lake, a beautiful and remote lake located in Montana — and south of our home near Bigfork by about 70 miles. Though last week it was sunny with real hints of summer, this week (and this is not unheard of for late April early May in Big Sky Country) the weather man says we will have snow. And behold, we now have it!

Though we have not been hit too badly at these lower lake elevations, in the higher elevations, clouds dumped 12 to 18 inches of the white stuff, most notably in Glacier National Park and on Marias Pass, which really saw the return of winter. From what the weather man says, we can expect this type of weather to persist for the next three to four days, the duration, in other words, of our conference.

CHOICE OF ACCOMMODATIONS

Though most everyone is staying at the Double Arrow, a beautiful lodge that has offered our group discounted rates, we have never-the-less chosen to camp at Tamaracks Resort Campground, which is also beautiful and certainly much cheaper, an important consideration for us after just putting out a considerable sum for repair of our transmission. But even if finances had not been a concern, we’ve gotten to the point where we simply prefer our Airstream to commercial accommodations, despite the beauty that Double Arrow also offers.

Right now, the deer are munching on willows just outside the window of our camper, and last night we drifted to sleep to the garbled wail of loons. We’ll take what we get and enjoy what we get. That not too hard to do as most of our time will be spent renewing friends with NOWA’s interesting members and attending the seminars, which are always  beneficial.

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THIS TIME LAST YEARS:

*New Book From Falcon on GNP

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Frustrations And Some Sadness Accompany Our Return Home

posted: April 19th, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: We’ve been home for almost a week, but have been so swamped with problems and sad news that we’ve had no time for postings.

For starters, just after backing our Airstream into its protective shed, we opened the slider to facilitate unpacking. No problem – not until I attempted to close it. Half way in I got diverted by a telephone call. When I returned I hit the wrong switch, the one activating the paddle latches, the latches that, when engaged, prevent the slider from bouncing free as one is traveling. Though I’ve made that mistake before, this time it caused the slider to freeze, and no amount of cajoling would close it. That night I closed the slideout by going outside, removing the 10 screws that allow the hinged cover to swing down. Then, I used a wrench to crank (as Airstream directs) the shaft that manually moves the slide in our out.  It’s an emergency procedure, and took about 10 minutes.


SageGrouse-202-2

On my last posting web designer Tim Van Buren asked if I'd post a low-light image taken during my morning on the lek. Because of the very slow shutter speed, it's a bit fuzzy and is not one I would have shown but for Tim's request. 800 mm lenses amplify the slightest camera motion and that's what happened here. Still, the lighting, as Tim had suspected, was beautiful.

 

Next day (Monday) I called Airstream and they planted some ideas, but it wasn’t until I shared those ideas with my neighbor (far more sophisticated with electronics than am I) that the problem was resolved. Hutch discovered that in the recess created when the paddle latches are extended that there’s a tiny pin. The pin needs to make contact with another device (which it does when the paddle latches are closed) to complete the circuit. Though the mistake I made is a common one, one I’ve made before as have others, this time my mistake apparently caused a very slight bend in the pen, thus preventing it from making the connection. Once Hutch discovered the problem, the remedy was achieved by bending the pine just slightly, allowing, then,  the circuit to be completed.

TRANSMISSION WOES

The other frustrating news concerns our transmission, which also decided to go out on our return. Dodge makes an excellent diesel engine and is famous for its Cummings brand, but they paired it with a transmission that others have also had trouble with. I was aware of the potential but still, it’s a shock when Dodge repair people say you have three options as follows: One, repair the old transmission for $2,200; two, replace the transmission with a brand new one for $3,000-plus; three, replace the old transmission with a beefed up new transmission for $4,000-plus. We opted for the second option, but only after learning we might have to wait for several months for a beefed-up transmission.

Repair people say that in the future, they’re going to recommend we change transmission oil every 20,000 miles rather than the recommended 30,000. That’s because we use our vehicle for so much towing. They assure us we should get well over 300,000 on our Cummings engine, and hopefully a lot more out of this, our second transmission. Too bad, I told them they had not paired the Cummings with GMC’s Allison transmission, which has reputation as being of the same quality as the Cummings.

SADNESS

Finally, we returned home to discover that one of my older friends, Loren Kreck, had passed away. (Here’s a report from the Missoulian.) He was an icon in the valley. In World War II, he had been a young fighter pilot. Later, he had returned to dental school and then moved to the Flathead were he worked as an orthodontist. He was a member of The Wilderness Society and was active as skier. He was an avid canoeist and spent months traveling wilderness rivers in Canada. He was a senior hockey player as was Charles Schultz (author of Peanuts), whom he once played against.

Yesterday, we attended his memorial service and though sad, we saw many good friends — as Loren would have wanted. Many shared stories, and Doug Chadwick told a story about a month-long camping trip he made to a remote island off the coast of Baja, California. During the trip, Loren was bitten on the thumb by a bark scorpion. Absolutely no help was available so Loren did the only thing he could do. He got into his kayak and paddled with one arm for most of the day, dangling his arm in the salt water, which seem to cleanse.

Like everyone else, we’ll miss Loren, a man with whom Janie and I have cross-country skied and shared many a dinner, enjoying his  stories of adventure and his sense of humor –  good up to the last breath.  (Loren’s last meal was popcorn and a beer. )

On the flip side, the celebration brought together in one setting several hundred people, many of whom we seldom see.  As life-long friend Lou Bruno said, “Seems the only time we see all our friends is at funerals and at weddings. “


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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

V-Bar-V Heritage Site

 

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Despite Snow, Spring Travels Offer Unexpected Pleasures

posted: April 8th, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: Two morning ago Janie and were camped in a KOA in Brigham City, Utah, and woke to a type of near silence that we generally associate with the falling of soft snow. As we lay in bed deciding whether to look out the window, every now and then we’d hear a soft blop, meaning  that a layer of white stuff was probably sliding down the side of our aluminum trailer.

Curiosity aroused, we peered outside confirming our suspicions. During the night about eight inches of snow had fallen and it completely covered our trailer, our campground – the surrounding mountains — and presumably the roads separating us from Montana.


AirstreamSnow-1

Two mornings ago snow covered our Airstream in Brigham City.

 

Two hours later, we called Chuck and Gail, two friends in Dillon, Montana, who informed us that the snow in their part of southwestern Montana was melting fast . That was good news, and now, off in the distance we could see a normal flow of traffic, and to the north it did appear as though the skies were clearing. Our biggest worry was the highly temperamental weather condition of roads on Monida Pass, but we decided to chance it, knowing that, if needed, campgrounds along the way were many.

MONIDA PASS ALWAYS A CONCERN

But now, we had a real incentive to move on, for Chuck and Gail had offered us the use of their driveway to park, and if we could make it we’d have a chance to catch up with the activities of friends we’d gotten to know from our mutual affiliations with two professional writing and photography associations. Chuck (also a professional fishing guide on several well known rivers) and I had both been asked to serve on the board of the Northwest Outdoor Writers Association and this would give us a bit of a chance to think about what we’d gotten ourselves into. “What have we gone and done,” we laughed on the phone.

GROUSE ON LEK

As well, Chuck informed me that sage grouse were performing on a historic lek, and he said that if the weather cooperated we could erect a photo blind and see what transpired. Because I’m writing this after the fact, I know what transpired and can assure you (promise you, in fact!) that Chuck and I were able to photograph a rarely seen phenomena, the results of which I’ll probably be posting tomorrow. But first, we have to get ourselves home.

Back then to Brigham, Utah and to the falling of snow… In short, cars on the highway had whipped the roads free and the temperature was climbing fast. Not only did we have an uneventful drive out of Utah, but also over Monida Pass, (Mon = Montana; Ida=Idaho) where I took time to stop and photograph an old barn, something I do ever time we drive over this historic pass.


OldBarn-1

Well known old barn on Monida Pass.

 

And so we powered on, arriving about 5 at the home of Chuck and Gail, and bless them, they had dinner waiting and had even broken out a bottle of wine.

We visited until almost 11 when Chuck, smiled and said that we best be hitting the hay. “You and I, Bert, got to leave here at 5:30 to get the blind up, and we want to be somewhat alert.

“Not too many places left where you can see sage grouse on their breeding grounds, and this is one spectacle you don’t want to miss.”


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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

*Jerome, Arizona

 

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Inclement Weather Simply Serves to Dramatize Zion National Park

posted: April 6th, 2010 | by:Bert

JanieAirstream-1

Janie says we're toughing it out in Zion National Park. (Note solar panels and Watchman Mountain on right rear.) Though conditions are obviously austere, still, she wonders if you'd: "Care to join?"

©Bert Gildart: When weather conditions deteriorate there’s not a whole lot an RVer can do but roll with the punches.

Right now — as I write — Monida Pass, the 6,824 foot-high pass that separates Montana from Idaho, is experiencing blizzard conditions, and we must cross it in order to return home. No big deal, we’ll just stay another day in Zion, which has also experienced inclement conditions.

Unlike Mondia, which is getting lots of snow, Zion has gotten only a little bit of snow; still its presence creates even more glorious conditions. Colors are more saturated and geological lines created by the ages seem more pronounced.

Campgrounds also seem to clear a bit, and that could be a good thing as the Watchman Campground has been booked through to November, and so we have not been able to get in. However, South Campground is immediately adjacent to the Watchman and though it offers no electricity (Watchman does) that has not been a problem, even with cloudy days.

Our four solar panels (two on top and two portable ones) are adequately collecting sufficient  energy for us to do anything we want. With them we have power to operate my energy-consuming computer and the equally as energy-depleting fan that blows out heat from our Airstream’s furnace. Even on cloudy days.


CheckerBoard-31AncientSnag-31AltarOfSacrafice-31


Click for larger image. L to R: Checker Board Mesa, ancient snag; Altar of Sacrifice, so named for streaks of red created by ancient depositions of iron oxide.

 

And so we are warm and productive and have been enjoying other aspects of this park, which turned 100 just last year. We’ve again toured Zion Canyon (by shuttle bus now, as starting April 1 cars are no longer permitted ) and photographed several more magnificent edifices, specifically Abraham Peak and Isaac Peak – whose names are symbolic to the Mormons.

BOOK OF MORMON

Abraham and Isaac combine with Mount Moroni to form the Court of the Patriarchs. Moroni was named for the angel that Joseph Smith said visited him on numerous occasions, beginning on September 21, 1823. The angel was the guardian of the golden plates, which Smith said were buried near his home in western New York, and which he said were the source material for the Book of Mormon. Though the tableau has never been found still, its presumed existence inspired the Mormon religion, which has endured.

Court of Patriarchs-1

Abraham and Isaac peaks photograph well in early morning light.

 


Other features were named by Mormons and one is the Temples of the Virgin embracing the  Altar of Sacrifice, so named for the red streaks that course downward. The streaks, which look like blood, actually derive from depositions of iron oxide. Clouds and snow of the past few days have dramatized the temples and framed (see above three photos and then focus on image to the right) the Altar of Sacrifice.

CHECKER BOARD MESA AND JURASSIC WINDS

Later in the day, Janie and I drove the Zion Mt. Carmel Highway. Snow had splashed an ancient snag with patches of white and melt water helped dramatize latent colors in the wood.

We drove to the East Entrance and photographed the banding in Checker Board Mesa. Horizontal banding was created by Jurassic winds, which deposited vast bands of sand in what is now Zion Park. Though the bands tend to be horizontal, when these ancient winds shifted, so, too, did the inclination of the layers. Vertically oriented bands are the result of freezing and thawing, all combining (again, see above) to create a checker board appearance, hence the name.


Watchman

Sunset adds wonderful red glow to the Watchman -- heralding not only the end of the day, but also the end of our stay in Zion National Park.

 


Our campground “home” in South Campground is back dropped by a huge monolith called the Watchman, and the other night, the setting sun imparted a wonderful red color to the huge mountain, creating a colorful ending to our day as well as to what is most likely the end of our time in Zion.

The experiences now add to those I’ve been enjoying in this park for over 30 years and which Janie and I have been enjoying for almost 20 years. Zion has always been one of my favorite national parks, and the rain and snow have done nothing to alter those feelings.


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THIS TIME LAST YEAR:

*Natchez Trace National Parkway

 

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Zion – But Isn’t This Also About the Raven?

posted: March 31st, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: This, I submit, would have been a compelling photograph without the raven, but doesn’t its presence, though tiny, really tell the story of this magnificent setting in Zion National Park?

Yesterday, I was driving the Mount Carmel Highway dominated on either side by Navajo Sandstone, when I came across this powerful sweep of rock and color. Climbing the cliff face I set up my tripod then noticed several ravens flying in the distance.

Wouldn’t it dramatize this scene if one of the ravens silhouetted itself where the sky is so incredibly blue?

To make this picture work one of the ravens had to fly into that precise spot. Then it had to cant its wings else the composition wouldn’t have worked. Reading my mind, the raven performed precisely as I had wished.


RavenTellsStory

Zion, yes, but isn't this image also about the raven?

 

WORLD OF THE RAVEN

The setting also required the use of an extreme wide angle lens to dramatize the world which the raven surveys. In other words, the story is certainly about artistic lines, but the presence of ravens creates a feeling of supremacy. Though the raven may not rule this country its presence adds grace no matter where it is, and that’s something I’ve commented on before.

A friend of mine, Rich Charpentier, makes good use of such settings as he has recently shown us in a trip to Arizona’s White Pockets. Rich is an excellent photographer and a superb print maker as well. He offers educational workshops validated by many testimonials. When I return home I believe Janie and I will commission him to create a large print for our home use.

As well, I’ll be forwarding the image to my photo agent who has been doing well for me with the sale of images, particularly those of birds. And certainly I’ll be using the image to illustrate a story I am producing for Rich Luhr, and his Airstream Life magazine.

Today the bright sunny skies have been replaced by thick overcast clouds, dramatizing the fact that Monida Pass, the major pass we must cross to return to our home in Montana, is now being slammed by blizzard conditions.

Horrible, isn’t it, that prudence suggests we hang out in Zion until conditions improve?



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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

*Sunset For the Joshua Trees?


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Dark Skies and Lonely Lands

posted: March 26th, 2010 | by:Bert

StarTrails2

Joshua Tree National Park still provides dark skies.

©Bert Gildart: Several days ago we departed Anza Borrego and the campsite at Pegleg where we had parked our Airstream for the past three months. During the course of our stay we met wonderful people and enjoyed our explorations of this huge desert park.

Over the course of the next few weeks I’ll most likely be posting a few blogs reflecting  on our stay in this the largest of all of our nation’s contiguous state parks. There’s much about our experiences there that have yet to crystallize.

One of the features that attracted us to Anza Borrego was its night skies; and the small town of Borrego Springs takes great pride in declaring that it is devoted to preserving its night-time environment. We became fascinated with this concept and decided that while heading back home to Montana, we’d make stops at areas claiming a dark-sky status.

VANISHING DARK SKIES

Not many such places are left, but several national park administered areas still remain that way and I’ve written about several to include Organ Pipe and Death Valley.

Although Joshua Tree National Park is surrounded by huge metropolitan areas, nevertheless, it claims a dark-sky status. We camped high in the park at Jumbo Rocks Campground and because late campers were driving through – and because the moon was still up – I waited until 3 a.m. to take my photo.


Airstream-JTAirstreamAirstream-6


L to R: Joshua Tree still provides dark skies for those camped at Jumbo Rocks; Chloride Production is a lonely land separating two national park administered areas; Mojave National Preserve.


No problem getting back up as we mature gentlemen have a built-in alarm that needs to be attended to several times at night.

Earlier I had found a spot for our Airstream that offered an ideal foreground. The spot enabled me to set up my tripod immediately outside the trailer and then return inside and read, waiting for the long time exposures to complete their course. I made a one-hour exposure, shown here, and several other short exposures using high-ISO readings. Obviously it was the one-hour exposure that created the lengthy star trails. I may show the other images in subsequent postings for they are also instructive.

MOJAVE NATIONAL PRESERVE

Our next destination was Mojave National Preserve and from previous experience we knew that this desert region offers lands that are incredibly lonely meaning that the possibility for dark skies was great. But on this occasion, although the completely isolated camping was blissful, a thin haze filtered in advertising the one night we had for night photography would not be ideal.


SunSet-3

Sun sets over Mojave National Preserve, also offering dark sky potential -- just not this time.



But as photographers know, you go with what you have. In this case, it meant the haze would mute the sun, creating a huge orb which I could further dramatize using an extreme telephoto lens.

DARK SKIES FOREVER

Though lonely lands and dark sky areas still exist they are becoming increasingly difficult to find, and that makes a commentary on our burgeoning human populations. Mostly, these growths have occurred in the past 100 years, and if this growth continues, what will it be like 100 years further down the road?

May lonely lands and dark skies be with us forever.


THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

*Armed Escort in Organ Pipe


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Borrego Badlands – “Privileged To See Such Scenery”

posted: March 22nd, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: Picture stories come in many forms and in the case of the ones shown here, occurred in one of the nation’s most spectacular settings: the Borrego Badlands as seen from Font’s Point in Anza Borrego Desert State Park.

The setting was made particularly interesting when four women began oooo-ing and ahhing as they peered over the ledge and down onto the rugged terrain represented by the Borrego Badlands.


Font'sPointFont'sPoint-3-2


Awed by what they see, the natural response is to immortalize the experience with photography, which the four ladies then proceeded to do.


Though I was located some distance from the women their body language telegraphed their feelings, and I quickly mounted a 400mm telephoto lens onto my Nikon D300, then clicked off a series of images. At the time I thought I was being discreet, but later two of the women made the 100-yard hike from their overlook to my overlook. Smiling, they asked if I’d been taking photos of them, and when I showed them the images, they asked if I’d be so kind as to email several to them.

“PRIVILEGED TO SEE SUCH SCENERY”

The ladies all thought the view was spectacular and it certainly is. They were happy they said, to have been privileged to see such spectacular scenery, such an incredible manifestation of erosion. But the panoramic view also tells a little about this largest of all contiguous state parks in California. Facing south, your gaze embraces Mexico, just 25 miles away. It encompasses Borrego Springs to the west and the Salton Sink with its Salton Sea to the east. Turning around, your gaze falls on the Santa Rosa Mountains to the north. In other words, it’s spectacular which ever way you look.


Font's Point-4

Borrego Badlands created by forces of erosion

 


Not only is the view point scenic, but it is also historic and has immense palenontological importance. In 1775 Pedro Font was the chaplain and navigator on Spain’s second expedition from Tubac, Mexico to Mission San Gabriel in California. The expedition was led by Spanish explorer Juan Bautista de Anza, for whom this park was named.

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

From the palenontological perspective, these badlands have been an immense repository of fossils to include the ground sloth, short-faced bear, dire wolf, sabertooth cat, mastodon, mammoth, giant zebra, half-ass, camel, yesterday’s camel, llama, giant camel, pronghorn, elk, deer, shrub oxen, and the Bautista horse. In other words, a trip to Font’s Point may well offer a little something for everyone.

It did for these four ladies, and it certainly did for me.


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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

*Mojave Preserve

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RV Friendships Know No Boundaries

posted: March 19th, 2010 | by:Bert

TomPalesh-1
Tom Palesch creating “Cowboy Breakfast.”

©Bert Gildart: If there are any limits to what Airstream friends will do for one another, I have yet to find them. Case is point is my request of Tom Palesch:

“Tom,” I asked, “would you mind placing one of the strobe lights next to our scorpion?”

My request was made shortly after Tom and Sandi (see Sandi’s web site on MINIATURE FOOD) had prepared an incredible “Cowboy Breakfast.”  Using the Dutch Oven that the couple toot around with them in their trailer, Tom had placed a pound of breakfast sausage into the metal pot.

After browning he then added a package of frozen hash browns to this cholesterol-free (Ha!) mixture, placed the lid back on and then covered that with about a dozen pieces of charcoal, so creating an oven-like effect. When the potatoes had cooked, he then depressed the mixture with a spatula. He cracked a number of eggs over everything and, finally, he slathered on cheese and  salsa.

SPIT IT OUT

All totaled, cooking required about half an hour, but we then gathered under his awning and dinned on one of the most sumptuous meals I’ve had in a long time. (Somehow all this reminded my of one of my father’s admonitions who always watched his health: “If it tastes good,” he’d exclaim, “SPIT IT OUT!” )

Unfortunately, such delicious meals (No, I didn’t spit it out.) vanish all too soon, leaving us with only another cup of coffee or two to wash down Tom’s epicurean delight.

It was about then that “Eagle-eye Janie” saw the tiny creature (previously described ) undulating over the desert rocks toward our circle of seats. But we’ve learned much since her sighting and my photographic work.

IT WAS A BARK SCORPION

We now know that our scorpion was most likely the bark scorpion, and the description of the species provided by a subsequent Google search made me catch my breath.

 

Airstreams-3

Setting for our Cowboy Breakfast and the discovery of a scorpion


 

“The Bark Scorpion was once thought to be extremely dangerous, but now is considered to be fatally dangerous primarily to infants, children, people in poor health, and the elderly. Also, people who are allergic can have very bad reactions to a bark scorpion. Even still, it has a very potent venom, and can harm you with its powerful sting.”

Of course Tom and I both knew that the sting of a scorpion can be painful but this one didn’t appear to be particularly aggressive, so Tom knelt down beside me and held one of the strobe lights – two to provide greater depth of field as I’ve described in previous postings about flowers (and natural history). I also took photos of our scorpion using natural light, and because our arthropod was so sluggish I asked Tom if he’d take a small twig and elevate the stinger, something he did without hesitation. Now that’s friendship!

MAYBE NOT SO BAD AFTER ALL

When our photo shoot was complete we conducted another research on scorpions and learned a bit more about their life histories and something more about their venom. Life histories of all scorpions are fascinating, but it was the capabilities of their venom that we focused on.

 

IMG_3734Scorpion-8HP

 

Nothing is too great a favor to ask of Tom Palesch who holds one of my strobes as we work just inches from this bark scorpion.

 

 

Here’s what this Google search provided:

“The venom of scorpions is used for both prey capture, defense and possibly to subdue mates. All scorpions do possess venom and can sting, but their natural tendencies are to hide and escape. Scorpions can control the venom flow, so some sting incidents are venomless…”

Now that description made me feel a bit more comfortable.

IS NIGHTTIME PHOTO ASSISTANCE OK?

Despite the potential danger, scorpions intrigue many people and Anza Borrego State Park offers various lectures on the species, one of which I attended last year. At the time the speaker recommended the purchase of a black light for finding scorpions at night, the time at which they are most active. Now that I know they’re out, I’ve been making a thorugh search around all the bushes that surround our two Airstreams. However, if I find one I’m now wondering if it would be too much to ask for night-time photo assistance.

 

Scorpion-7HP

Bark scorpion photographed with natural light

 

 

Maybe I’ll just try and con Tom and Sandi out of another one of their delicious Cowboy Breakfasts, if not now, perhaps a little further down the road of our perpetual adventures.

 

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THIS TIME THREE YEARS AGO:

*Compassionate Water Tanks

 

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Life Around Harper Cabin Brought Alive By Retired Superintendent Mark Jorgensen

posted: March 18th, 2010 | by:Bert

AgaveGrowth

Retired superintendent Mark Jorgensen explains the phenomenal growth spurt of the agave

©Bert Gildart: This past weekend the Anza-Borrego Foundation provided an all-day excursion to Harper Cabin as its “Hike of the Month”. Since we’ve been here I’ve tried to take in as many of the seminars the park offers, but I particularly wanted to take in this one, specifically because retired superintendent Mark Jorgensen was leading the hike.

Without a doubt Mark knows more about the Anza Borrego Desert than anyone. Before accepting the position as superintendent, he worked as one of the park’s rangers. As well, Mark sat on several prestigious bighorn sheep councils, and that is why I sought him out about 12 years ago. At that time Mark helped me with several chapters in my book about Mountain Monarchs, Bighorn Sheep, and so I wanted to renew acquaintance.

SURPRISE START

The gathering started with a surprise. Since arriving in Anza Borrego I’ve been following Bob Baran’s blog, which is about this state park. Months ago we agreed to provide links to one another’s posts, so it was a wonderful surprise to find that Bob was among the 23 hikers. When the group was all assembled at Tamarask Campground, somehow we both recognized one another immediately. His posting about our trip shows some wonderful images, particularly of the cabin and the area in which the Harper Brothers once lived.

From Tamarask Campground we made the short drive to  Pinyon Wash. We then followed a “jeep” trail for about five miles to the trailhead.  Then we began our hike.

Our destination was the cabin built by the Harper brothers about 1920, where they had discovered a large, gently sloping flat that could be used for grazing cattle. Upon reaching the cabin we learned that little remains of their attempts — other than a multi-level dam and their cabin. The brother’s efforts to retain water with the two dams soon met disaster for sand quickly filled them. Then, their cattle contracted anthrax.

Unfortunately, the anthrax may also have affected the area’s bighorn sheep population. Mark said that because water had been so drastically diverted the park recently installed several water tanks to help the sheep. Under the circumstances, installation of the water tanks was justified.

LITTLE REMAINS

Mark led us directly to the cabin and we discovered that little remained of what had once been a one-room 15- x 12-foot home. Originally, the top and front were made from corrugated iron. Agave stalks supported the roof.

Though it was fascinating to relive the struggles of the Harper Brothers, much of my interests concerned the area’s natural history. Along the way we stopped at an agave plant that had just put on a phenomenal spurt of growth. In a period of but two weeks, the stalk of the agave had soared about 12 feet. Soon, blossoms will cap the stalk, representing the end of a long life, which is why agave is also known as the century plant.


CanyonDescent-3MarkJorgensen-3


HIKE TO HARPER CANYON THREAD THROUGH NARROW CANYONS; MARK JORGENSEN AND BOB BARAN, THE LATTER OF WHOM I’VE GOTTEN TO KNOW THROUGH THE SHARING OF BLOGS

We also stopped at an ancient Indian village and as we cast around we found morteros, metates and old pottery shards. Mark showed us one of the shards but then returned the tiny piece to the spot from which he had taken it.

HIGHLIGHTS

Though the trip was exceptional, for me the highlight always seems to be the meeting of all the interesting people who invariably sign up for such adventures. All were natural history and history enthusiasts and it was fun to share thoughts.


Mortaros-1HarperCabin-3


HIKE ALSO LEAD TO AN INDIAN VILLAGE WHERE WE EXAMINED MORTAROS; ULTIMATELY THE HIKE LEAD TO THE HARPER BROTHERS CABIN.

 

Once more it was instructive to join Mark. It was fun meeting Bob Baran and sharing  a few thoughts about blogging — all backdropped by the incredible desert provided by Anza Borrego Desert State Park.


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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

Star Light Star Bright — Night Photography at Organ Pipe


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Scorpions Are Out At PegLeg

posted: March 17th, 2010 | by:Bert

©Bert Gildart: Since Janie had cataract surgery, which included lens replacement, it seems as though there’s little that passes by her undetected. So it seemed this morning as we sat watching the rocks just beyond the huge mat in front of the Airstream that belong to Tom and Sandi Palesch.

“You wanted to see a scorpion!” she exclaimed. “Well, there’s one right now.”


Scorpion

First scorpion I've ever seen, much less photographed. What kind is it? Anyone know?



How she saw it I’ll never know for it was small. As well it seemed sluggish, reluctant to move, and so everyone in our small group had difficulty finding it. But she was right; there it was, and because it blended so perfectly with the rocks and the sand we all knew it might be time to start watching where we walked.

HARD TO I.D.

Because so many species of scorpions apparently inhabit southern California (Anza Borrego in this Case), I’m not sure of the species, though it could be either a rock scorpion or a bark scorpion. That, at any rate, was the consensus after attempting a Google ID. Hopefully, as time goes by we’ll find someone who can do a better job of identifying our arthropod.

In the meantime, head’s up, for the hot weather is apparently bringing them out. Watch where you walk, and if you are an RVer who has been leaving your shoes out at night, now might be the time to start bringing them in. If you’ve got a woodpile, you might want to examine each chunk before you pick it up.

In general, the advice is to keep your eyes open. In my case, I think I’ll just be taking my wife with me everywhere I go. Aside from the fact her eyes are obviously much better than mine, it’s not a bad option in many other ways.


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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

*Amargosa Opera House


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