©Bert Gildart: Coyote Mountain in Anza Borrego Desert State Park rises abruptly from a flat desert plain of about 700 feet and terminates in a gently rounded peak at 3,192 feet above sea level. While the base seems dominated by borrow brush, mesquite, creosote and the occasional stand of palms, the crown is dominated by agave and various types of cholla.

Early morning image of 3,192 foot high Coyote Mountain, from near Borrego Springs. Base is about 700 feet.

In between are about 2,500 vertical feet of elevation, but the relief along the route we chose is deceiving as it drops five to seven hundred feet on several different occasions adding to the challenge but also to the interest.

PREVIOUS ATTEMPT

Last week a group of us attempted a climb but had to turn around because of injury to a member of our party.  We had started from the trail head for Alcoholic Pass, but this time we started from our campsite at Pegleg.  I’m pleased to report that this time we made it, signed the log contained in a bottle and then spent some time gazing around enjoying the scenery.

L to R:  Bob, Don, Nancy, Christie ascending base of Coyote; summit of Coyote, Don about to ascend last 100 yards of climb to Coyote

All members of the group were good friends, and included Don, a retired forest service economist; Nancy, who worked in the sales of outdoor products; Bob, retired from the Royal Canadian Mounted Police; and his friend Christie, a retired school teacher.

COMMANDING VIEW

From the top of Coyote we could see Toro Peak to the north while to the east the Salton Sea was a huge splash of muted white, barely visible because of all the haze. To the south we could see Whale Peak.

No question, we had a commanding view, which made the climb worth the effort.

Because we almost completed the climb last week I can also say that the route from Alcoholic Pass is probably the easier of the two. Still, yesterday, our climb to the top required but three and one half hours.

Climbing Coyote Peak – Successfully

We spent an hour on top and then began our descent, which required about the same as our ascent.  For me, going up was easier, essentially because it is easier on the knees.  But trekking poles took off some of the pressure.

Either route provides for an outing that offers insights into desert vegetation and chances to take in some stunning vistas.  All five us recommend the climb.

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AIRSTREAM TRAVELS THREE YEARS AGO:

*Zion’s Ancient Rock Art

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©Bert Gildart: “Look quick,” said Janie.  “The rainbow!”

Without a doubt Janie is the first to notice the incredible displays of lighting that are so frequent over the desert mountains.  This morning, the first light of the rising sun warmed the San Ysidro Mountains, of Anza Borrego Desert State Park, creating a picture that was absolutely stunning.  Though we have enjoyed such dramatic lighting displays in other parts of the country, it does seem they occur with a greater degree of frequency out here in the desert.

Yesterday's rainbow over San Ysidro Mountains, Anza Borrego Desert State Park

These scenes, of course, are fleeting, and one must be prepared, something I’ve learned to do now from experience.  I now keep a camera bag on hand with a short telephoto affixed to my Nikon D7000, which typically works best for scenics out here at Peg Leg.

Of course it helps to have an early morning watch dog, and Janie certainly fills that function, for she is generally the first to  raise the blinds here in our Airstream  — and  to then see the rising sun and what it has done to the mountains.

Invariably it is dramatic, but sometimes it is stunning, as it was this morning.

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AIRSTREAM TRAVEL THREE YEARS AGO:

*Night Photography in Death Valley

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©Bert Gildart: Bill and Larry are devotees to Anza Borrego, and during the winter, make as many trips from their home in San Diego to camp and to explore this premier desert state park as their schedule will permit.

Images of Larry and Bill flank cyclists, part of the many attracted by the dragon and by our elaborate  photo shoot.

Originally, we met them by virtue of a mutual interest in our Airstreams, which is always a constructive start, but of itself probably insufficient for long-term friendships unless there are yet other interests. In this case there were, for Bill is a photographer/blog writer/historian, while Larry is a historian/gourmet cook/ stimulating conversationalist.

CHINESE AMERICAN HERITAGE

This weekend the focus of our shared outing pertained to Larry’s Chinese American heritage. More specifically, Larry was interested in features flanking a small portion  of Anza Borrego that tied in with the Year of the Dragon, exhibited near Borrego Springs.

A few of the 150-plus metal sculptures created by Ricardo Breceda.

About five years ago, multimillionaire Dennis Avery (as in “Avery” office supplies) commissioned Ricardo Breceda to create a series of sculptures. The response was impressive.  In desert areas surrounding Borrego Springs, Breceda began to position dozens of  metal sculptures.  Examples now include dinosaurs, saber-toothed cats, sloths, birds of prey, wild horses, elephants, llamas, camels, and various people. But germane to our day, Breceda created a huge dragon, which has been attracting the curious.

POWERFUL PREDATOR

The immense head of the creature appears vicious and in life such a reptile must have been a powerful predator.  Standing beneath the head of the beast, we could see that the body then coursed east across a portion of the desert, disappeared beneath the rural road, and finally – some 350 feet later — then concluded on the east side of the road with a massive tail.

And, now, here is where Larry makes his debut.

In historic times, the Chinese began celebrating the Year of the Dragon, imparting various values to the creature.  Larry says the dragon of their mythology is a benevolent, peaceful dragon, “kind of like Puff the Magic Dragon from the Peter Paul and Mary song.”  Larry said the Dragon is the mightiest of the signs and that it symbolizes such character traits as dominance and ambition.

TRADITIONAL DRESS

To commemorate his Chinese heritage and bring attention to the dragon Larry had dressed this day in the attire of a late 1800s Chinese man who was respectful of the Emperor.

Appropriately, Larry’s head was partially shaved but to represent tradition he wore a cap to which was attached a realistic appearing Queque (a long braided  ponytail).  A red bow was attached to the several foot long length of hair.  The Manchu hairstyle was significant because it was a symbol of Ming Chinese submission to Qing rule. The queque also aided the Manchus  in identifying those Chinese who refused to accept Qing dynasty domination.

Larry also wore a changshan (long robe)  and he carried a huge ball intended to appear like a lantern, which it did.

Both Bill and I had thoughts about positioning Larry in ways that would dramatize the dragon, and before long our “shoot” began to attract an audience. Cyclists pulled off the road, and virtually every car stopped to see if we were producing images for a movie or for a magazine.

Dressed in traditional garb, Larry helps commemorate "The Year of the Dragon."

We left the question unanswered believing it bad luck to share one’s hopes.

The day was a productive one and later we all returned to our Airstream where Janie and I then prepared a steak dinner, trying to reciprocate in some small way for all the time both Bill and Larry had invested to make the upcoming Year of the Dragon just as symbolic as possible.

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AIRSTREAM TRAVELS THREE YEARS AGO

*Endangered Penninsular Bighorn Sheep

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©Bert Gildart: Last few nights, the moon has been ascending and descending over the mountains surrounding Anza Borrego Desert State Park in a most satisfying manner.

Moon descending into San Ysidro Mountains, Anza Borrego Desert State Park

The image shown here was taken about 6:45 a.m. of the moon setting into the San Ysidro Mountains to our west, about 10 minutes before the sun rises in the east.

For the image I used an 840mm lens, which creates the larger than life impression.

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Airstream Travels Three Years Ago:

*Favorite Photos from 2009

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©Bert Gildart: Here at Pegleg the New Year was ushered in with barely a peep, but shortly thereafter all sorts of good news begin filtering in.  Based on news from the first week of 2012 this could be a pretty good year for Janie and me.

First, I’ve just received an advanced copy of my new book, Glacier Icons, and I think (obviously)  it represents high-quality  work.  Though the book consists of about a hundred  images, essentially the book takes 50 large photographs (such as the one above and four  below) and complements them with an essay.  Smaller images round out the stories.

EXCERPTS:

Typically essays are relatively short, but each packs in much information. Here are a few introductory excerpts:

*Throughout North America, many species of wildlife engage in ritualistic contests to determine male order of dominance.  In the animal world, few contests are more vigorous or the ritual more complex than among mountain sheep…

*When one compares the various traits of the grizzly with those of the black, there is one distinct feature that immediately separates the two species. That, of course, is temperament…   There is reason for this behavior which is linked with environmental features that existed long ago…

* Hard, wind-blown snow comes early to the park’s high peaks.  It drives the elk down into the low country; it covers the boulder-strewn home of the mouse-like pika; and it sends the powerful grizzly bear scurrying to its den for a long winter’s nap.  In fact, the rugged alpine country forces just about every type of creature to leave or hide.  But there always remains a beautiful little one-pound animal, a bird called the ptarmigan…

SHIPMENT ON WAY

In several weeks we’ll have a shipment here at Pegleg of Glacier Icons.  The book will sell for $16.85, and certainly we’re hoping that anyone going to Glacier might  purchase a copy. Of course, you’ll be able to get it in Glacier or from Globe Pequot, but get it from us, and I’ll autograph and provide a personalized note.

There is yet more news.  I am flattered that Bill, a fellow blog writer, singled out some of my photography and made it the focus of one of his postings.  One day I’ll have to reciprocate, as I believe Bill is not only an excellent writer, but a top-notch photographer as well.

Ascending Old Rag

The other good news is that Globe Pequot has just shared with me the cover of a book about Shenandoah that Janie and I spent last summer updating.  This, our fourth edition of Hiking Shenandoah, is much expanded and includes more on natural history.  Additionally, all images are in color. The cover depicts Adam Maffei standing near Dark Hollow Falls.  But the book’s interior  also includes one of him climbing Old Rag, shown here.

There’s more yet to report, but I’ll save that for another posting.  In this posting, more than anything else, I hope you’ll  think, Glacier Icons.

NOTE: From Chris (Where The Bear Walks), I have just learned of the sad passing of Roy Ducat, companion of Julie Helgeson’s in Night of the Grizzly.

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Airstream Travels Three Years Ago:

*The Compulsion of Borrego Badlands

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Pacing off size

©Bert Gildart: Five-hundred years from now – after man has rebounded from a devastating decline in population associated with much tragic and social unrest — archaeologists will reemerge to wonder about those who lived in the distant past. (Come on, play along for a minute.)

They begin by excavating, and because deserts are always so productive, lo and behold, they begin in Anza Borrego. Here, they find a rock or two whose juxtaposition appears to have been created intentionally.

“Eureka!” someone exclaims! And then they begin the tedious process of uncovering the entire structure.

Months later, a form will appear, and scientists will conclude that it was the recreation of a huge snake.

In fact, with its triangular shaped head and segmented tail (all created with the artistic arrangement of rocks) it appears to be a rattlesnake.

120 Foot-Long Serpent

Measurements will determine the sinuous form of the snake stretches about 40 feet but that if uncoiled, it would measure 120-feet long.

Much time must have to have been devoted to the project, perhaps, scholars will conclude, four or five hours.  But, then, to perfect the structure, these people had to return over a period of several days, perhaps even weeks. And because so much time was involved our future scientist will have to wonder if Homo sapiens of the period deified the snake?

Searching for answers scholars will dig into books created by the ancients of the year 2012, and they will learn  that Native Americans of the mid-18^th Century (as an example)  created images of the creatures that were important to them at the time.  In this place still called Anza Borrego they created symbols of the sun and of the anthropomorphs.

They created graphic images of the genitalia of men and woman perhaps as a means of increasing fertility.  And in other areas still preserved in lands yet known (we can hope) as National Parks, they learned Native ancients created images of sheep, possibly because sheep (Zion NP)had died out. They hoped that through the creation of their images that they would generate the magic needed to bring sheep back, and so push back hunger. (Other petroglyph sites I’ve visited: Earth Mother, V-Bar-V)

In other words, they carved out pictographs and petroglyphs for all sorts of reasons, generally for reasons that seemed important at the time.

Which brings us to our snake.

Worship of Snakes

Serpents have long been worshiped, because they shed their skins and are symbolically “reborn.” In fact, classes of the Hindu and Buddhist have worshipped (and still worship) snakes – and very large ones at that.  And, so, it is probably safe to extend the feeling of awe for snakes to Homo sapiens at large. And because of recent events, so it is here at Pegleg. Just the other day someone saw a large rattler in the hills just behind us.

Through the eons, many have worshipped snakes

I honestly have no idea who created the huge serpent, but the reasons could be associated with some of the above. Perhaps it was an infertile couple desirous of procreation; a group hoping for immunity from a bite.  Or perhaps as scientist say, no one really knows why the ancients created the thousands of pictographs and petroglyphs that cover the American Southwest. “Maybe,” our scholars say, “they were simply doodling, trying to pass the time on a warm winter day.

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AIRSTREAM TRAVELS THREE YEARS AGO:

*Airstreaming Along the Blue Ridge Parkway

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©Bert Gildart: Family has kept us busy here in Bullhead City with some wonderful tours to local attractions, the little mining town of Oatman being the highlight.

L To R: “Classy asses” roam streets of Oatman, abandoned years ago by miners; Christmas decorations adorn trees on fringe of Oatman; Biblical use of the other word for burrows adds to this old mining town’s colorful  ambiance.

The town harkens back to a mining era and is located in the Black Mountains of Mohave County, Arizona.  The drive from Bullhead City requires about half an hour and the road ascends to a height of 2,710 feet.  Christmas decorations grace the many juniper trees as we approach, imparting a festive atmosphere to an already interesting history.

Route 66

Oatman is particularly proud of its Route 66 heritage and replicas of 66’s black-on-white US highway shield are posted all over the town. Route 66 souvenirs abound and many tourists have pasted autographed one-dollar bills on the walls and ceiling of the Oatman Hotel’s bar and restaurant.

Granddaughter Halle with "miner" and grandmother Pat

Signs posted around the town explain that Oatman began as a tent camp soon after two prospectors struck a $10 million gold find in 1915.  Though the area had been already settled for a number of years, Oatman’s population grew to more than 3,500 in the course of a year.

Classy Asses

Stores of various types graced the town’s streets, and a “gunman” walking the town’s streets imparts a Wild West atmosphere, but the chief attraction were the burros, (signs everywhere remind us they are “Classy asses”) which roam the streets.  Though normally gentle, the burros are in fact wild and signs posted throughout Oatman advise visitors to exercise caution. The burros are descended from pack animals turned loose by early prospectors, and are protected.

The town is full of burrows descended from ones prospectors abandoned years ago.

Granddaughter Halle enjoyed feeding the burrows and also enjoyed the opportunity to pan for gold.  Janie and I both enjoyed the trip and the opportunity to experience a slice of history from Arizona’s past.  With all the entertainment family has provided, we feel as though we’ve been treated like honored guests.

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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

*Creative Use of PhotoShop

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©Bert Gildart: Merry Christmas from Silver View RV Resort, where Janie and I are now parked in our Airstream.

Our back window where the bed is located faces the Colorado River and the night time views of Bullhead City are dramatic.

We still classify ourselves as Pegleggers but my daughter’s in-laws winter in Bullhead, so we made the four-hour drive to be with them all at Christmas.  By everyone I mean Bill, Pat, Will, Angie, and, of course, my granddaughter Halle Mae.  We consider ourselves lucky to have family so near and have many fun plans planned for the next few days.

Bullhead is essentially a retirement community, and gambling is king.  The area seems to offer a great deal for the winter retiree, to include golfing, riverboat trips, excursions to old mining towns, and fishing.

It’s also a nice spot for a photographer, and last night I stood on the bluff of our “Premium Plus RV lot” and watched as the traffic chugged by and the lights from the casinos blazed.  I also took a few shots of the extent to which some occupants have gone to create a Christmas atmosphere.

Everyone seems to be in a Christmas mood, and complete strangers holler out Merry Christmas.

View from our Airstream on Christmas Eve

We’d like to extend those same wishes to all of you.

MERRY CHRISTMAS

With love, Janie and Bert

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THIS TIME FIVE YEARS AGO:

*Christmas in Tampa Florida

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©Bert Gildart: In a land where everything either sticks, stings or bites,  Bill (see previous post) and I decided we would return to the Moonlight Canyon trail and see if we could learn more about what — and how — sheep eat. Can they actually digest thorns?

Surviving in a land where everything sticks, stings or bites

Essentially because this area in Anza Borrego Desert State Park  is so rugged, it is, in fact, ideal sheep country, and that morning we’d watched as a band of about five desert bighorn sheep – all young rams – had munched on surrounding vegetation.  Food they consumed grew close to the ground and from our vantage we could not see what it was.  Everything here seemed covered with thorns, and we wondered how they managed.

A DIET OF CACTI?

The sheep had moved on so Bill and I decided to climb to the prominence on which they’d been watching the world around them. Here, we found much cholla, and every single one contained extraordinarily sharp thorns.

Sheep munch away the sharp thorns to exposure the underlying fruit of the cholla. Apparently, it is all palatable.

Mind you, these were brutally sharp thorns, and as we had climbed, several had lodged in the soft fabric of my jeans and then penetrated to jab me in a particularly painfully manner.  This was the food of our sheep, and as we examined the plants, we found no discarded thorns.  Apparently, they had consumed not only the fruit of the cacti, but also the thorns.

MICRO CLIMATES

Bill and I returned to the trail and his attention turned to the various micro-climates contained along the Moonlight Canyon trail. He asked me if I’d noted the various rock pockets where temperatures fluctuated, and it was true.  Here in this twist-y canyon where the aspect changed markedly, we found not only pockets of cold, but also pockets of relative warmth. Apparently, the warm pockets provided conditions appropriate for the season’s last brave flowering species.

Bill said he believed the flower was a fuchsia. With its long red sepals and petals and very conspicuous stamen it was a colorful plant, necessary perhaps to attract insects for late season pollination.  It was a perfect photographic specimen so I attached a 105mm macro lens, set up a tripod, and then illuminated it with two strobes manually  (250sec, f32)  set to overwhelm ambient light, so producing the black background.

Janie and I left Agua Calienta late in the day, commenting over and over that we’d had a marvelous day, filled with good friends, flowers, birds, and wildlife. How could it get any better?

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THIS TIME THREE YEARS AGO:

Channel Islands

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©Bert Gildart: Last night as I was returning from my chore of loading up our four, six gallon water jugs to replenish part of the 40 gallons of water we seem to use each week, the moon began to rise.

Before I had gone far palm trees began to border the moon, reminding us that the desert can indeed provide stunning vistas, particularly in the evening and then even more dramatically, at night.

Out here in wide open spaces, one of our pleasures is, in fact, the night skies, and Janie and I contend that the deserts offer some of the best in viewing opportunities.

Our contention begs this question:

How many places are left in the United States where night skies are clear enough to study – much less – see the various constellations?  Or even the moon?  Anza Borrego now prides itself as being on a national  register of areas still processing “Dark Skies.”

As time goes by there are fewer and fewer areas in the U.S. that qualify.  A few other places include Death Valley, Joshua Tree, and various places in Montana such as the Big Hole Battlefield (teepees). There are, of course, others, but these are some of our favorites.

Night photography can celebrate these places, as shown in photos included.  One of course is the moon rise (above), the other is also a moon rise image taken two years ago on New Year’s Eve.  This image is particularly special as it shows us toasting to the New Years but also to the Blue Moon behind us.

L to R:  Death Valley, toasting the New Year and the rare Blue Moon, star trails at Big Hole Battlefield.

Night Skies are precious and it is a shame that they are dwindling throughout our country.

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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

*Transforming Photography Into Art

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©Bert Gildart: Friday in Borrego Springs, California, is highlighted with local farmers setting up dozens of stands at Christmas Circle, the center of this small town named after the Spanish word for sheep, Los Borregos.

Yesterday, of course, was Friday, and as anticipated farmers from many surrounding farms made their weekly pilgrimage to this small town of several thousand.  Like others Janie and I also made a pilgrimage but in our case it was but seven miles from Peg Leg  to visit this local Farmer’s Market.

Choices of vegetable were numerous and included stands of grapefruits, lemons and limes and oranges.  But it also included such delectables  as persimmons, artichokes, cucumbers, zucchini, avocado, and cherry tomatoes.

Most of the farmers were Mexican, and they all seemed to take great pride in their work.  They offered samples of various juices, and we had to admit that some may have been the very best we’d ever tasted.

Fruits were modestly priced and were a bargain, but when we were told the bottle of fresh orange juice to which we’d committed was $7.00 we both tried not to swallow.

But it was excellent, and the farmer had spent much time explaining his techniques for raising vegetables – and oranges.

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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

*Chaco Canyon

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©Bert Gildart: Exactly 70 years ago  I was at Pearl Harbor and though I was only a year old and obviously have but little memory of the events that unfolded that horrible day in Hawaii, I have heard the story from my parents who certainly do remember the horrors.

It was a Sunday, and my dad and mom had placed me outside in a baby carriage, when they heard what sounded like thunder. It was, of course, the Japanese, and they were attacking America, “A day of infamy,” as President Franklin Roosevelt would soon say.

At the time my dad was a captain, four years out of West Point, and after securing my mom and me, he quickly reported to his post at Schofield Barracks…

To read the rest of this account, click the following highlight, which will take you to a blog which I posted two years ago. (Remembering Pearl Harbor) Part of my account also includes the writings of one of my parent’s good friends (Rosalie Folda), who has written extensively about December 7th, 1941.

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©Bert Gildart: Not far where we’re camped there’s a marker stipulating that if we are here hoping to find Pegleg’s gold mine then we must add ten rocks to a designated pile.  Because we believe in legends, by now we’ve most likely added several dozen rocks to the ever growing heap.

Let those who seek Pegleg's gold add ten rock to this pile.

Folks like us who search for Pegleg’s gold are actually searching for a mine said to have been discovered by Thomas Smith. It is written that the man “salted” the desert with a peg leg as he searched for gold. In other words,  Smith  once searched this area for gold, walking on one leg that was good and one leg (a pegged leg)  that was bad.  Legend has it that he did indeed find gold but died before he heralded his discovery to the world..

Smith searched the area for gold that now bears his name around 1866. He lived near the Pegleg campground, so his gold mine really could be within a few miles of our Airstream.  Because we believe the story, we hike the hills almost daily.

Devoted to tradition, Janie adds one of the 10 mandated rocks

What that means, of course, is that Janie and I and the companions with whom we are now camped may well be on the verge of the discovery of  gold.  Every day we search improbable areas, but most  importantly, we add more stones to this every growing monument of rock.  Surely adherence to tradition will soon be paying dividends.

However, I’m not sure we’ll tell anyone what finally happens.

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AIRSTREAM TRAVELS  SIX YEARS AGO:

*Sunshine Skyway Bridge (Tampa, Florida)

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©Bert Gildart: We’ve been at Peg Leg now for almost one full week, and not once have we had to turn on our generator to satisfy our electrical needs.  So far solar energy — transformed into electrical energy through our six solar panels — has provided everything we need. Now this is exciting stuff, so exciting that I’m constantly getting up from my work table to gawk at the panel with the solar controller to visually observe — and appreciate — all of this heavenly largess.

It’s fascinating despite weather conditions, and during the past week we’ve had several days of overcast skies and nights when temperature dipped into the 30s, meaning the drain on our four batteries has at times been great.  Change, in fact,  is great, as my Zamp Solar Charge Controler tells me, and it changes further in accordance with the devices we are using at the moment. The list is long.

Computers, TV, printers, showers, all powered by the sun

We convert stored energy into usable electrical energy using two inverters. In turn, the inverters simultaneously provide juice for our two computers. As well, the inverters can charge up batteries in our cameras, cell phones, our electric toothbrushes, our i-Pod, etc.  We try and do this during the day when the sun is out and when the sun almost instantly replaces all Airstream battery drainage. For the same reason we try and take showers when the sun is shining for the drain created be water pump is substantial.

NOT MUCH DAYLIGHT

But we certainly use electricity at night and that’s when the depth of our four batteries comes into play.  The sun sets here about 4:30 and until we go to bed we burn all the lights we want, play the i-Pod, and may watch one of the many movies we’ve brought along.  We also operate the furnace, which is probably the biggest drain on our batteries. In the morning when we awaken, our voltage normally reads 12.9, but this morning it read 12.7. Presumable that was because we ran our furnace. After all, it was cold.

Nights are very long right now so we go to bed about 9 but I’ve been getting up about 5, at which time I work on the computer.  That means I need battery power for the computer until the sun comes up about 6:45, at which time the panels seem to kick right in. As the sun rises I start with a reading of 0.2 on my solar controller, but by 11 everything seems to be fully charged, regardless of whether or not the sun is obscured by clouds.  By 10 o’clock voltage on the solar monitor is reading over 14 and if the sun is shining, the monitor tells me that over 10 solar amps are pouring into our Airstream each hour.  Wow!

EXCITING STUFF

To some, this may not mean a darn thing, and until recently, it didn’t mean much to me, and to tell the truth, there’s much I still don’t understand.  But it is satisfying to know all the research is paying off and that I can monitor all these transformations as they actually take place. That’s so exciting, and many of you may be able to relate.

Just think back to that glorious moment when your junior high science teacher told you that energy could neither be created nor destroyed, only converted.  Wasn’t that one of the greatest – one of the most exciting — moments of your life?

Now you know how I feel — and yes, I’ve listened to Bruce Springsteen crooning about “the wink in a young girl’s eye.”

*NOTE: I’ve just learned that Wikipedia has picked up my blog  Night of the Grizzly, calling it “extra reading.” The Video, Night of the Grizzly, produced by Montana Public TV, has also been released.  It’s a thorough and informative documentary and pulls together the many people involved with the tragic and fatal maulings back in 1967.  The documentary also reviews the life history of grizzly bears.  Many were interviewed, including me.  What’s more almost half of the still images in the documentary were mine — and I’m very proud of that.

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AIRSTREAM TRAVELS SIX YEARS AGO:

*Kayaking Tampa Bay

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©Bert Gildart:  Though I am working on a book about Montana, the door to our Airstream is wide open allowing me to peer through the screen and maintain a vigil for migrating tarantulas.  Late November and early December is their mating season, so the prospect could be good. I have never seen one in the wild, but that could be because we’ve never been here so early.  Mind you, not everyone around me is enthusiastic about this prospect, but as a bonafied desert rat, such an event will be even more satisfying than knowing that the Steelers are playing in the Super bowl.

SOLAR POWERED

At the moment, Janie and I are housed in our Airstream in a barren spot of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park known as Peg Leg. Once again, this may not be a satisfying experience for everyone, and I hesitate to say anything good about the area for fear more people will show up.

At Peg Leg solar panels are a must

For us, Peg Leg has come to symbolize peace, some freedom and a place where people seem to live and let live.  We’ll be here for several months and because of some breakdown (that’s what it has to be!) in the economic system, camping here is free, but to enjoy the area and to not piss off one’s neighbors, one must have solar panels. We have six, two that are portable, and four on top of our Airstream.  As well, we have four batteries in our trailer.

KEEPING BUSY – NO PROBLEM

Other than work, Janie and I find much to occupy ourselves. We read and watch old movies powered by our inverter.  As well we hike, ride our bicycles and explore a multitude of features left by the historic people who preceded us (Peg Leg is one).  We also enjoy evening get-togethers ‘round a fire and then socializing with people whom we have known over the years.

Most surrounding us are now gone, but we're here for the long term

We were delighted to see that Ted and Carol of British Columbia were back and are looking forward to Don and Nancy of Vermont showing up. Mike the Mechanic is here, too, and several years ago he helped to demystify a life with solar panels.

THE ANAL SPHINCTER

As well, we watch for tarantulas and scorpions and publicize such creatures whenever we find one.  We hope their presence will keep the neer-do-wells away. Though we don’t see many showing up here, we do get ‘em.  One such man ran his humongous generator non-stop  ’round the clock, flew his model airplane (against all rules), and built a fire directly on the ground, which is also against the rules.  Before leaving, the man informed me that I was a “poopy kind of person.”  In turn, I informed him that he was a “First Class Anal Sphincter.”

That’s the kind of person I hope will be intimidated by the prospect of seeing a tarantula.

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THIS TIME LAST YEAR:

*Bosque del Apache

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©Bert Gildart: Traveling “THE 5,”  ” THE 10″ and  “THE 210″  in northwest California this past week has driven home the meaning of overpopulation in a way no place else in America has ever done.  From the moment we entered the northern part of this the nation’s second largest state this old country boy from Montana (4^th largest state but with a population less than 1M) encountered driving conditions that exceeded those manifesting themselves from our mistake of several years ago.  At the time, we took a wrong turn and then found ourselves pulling our Airstream around Westmorland Circle in Washington D.C. That was bad (also see Vehicular Madness), but here in Northern California it was bumper to bumper not just for an hour or two but for several days.

Centers of Insanity

For two entire days we’ve encountered towns such as Modesto, population 202,747; Fresno, population 494,665; (fifth-largest in California); Delano, 38,824 (just a dot on map); Bakersfield, 347,483 (“room for expansion”); and Adelanto, 31,765 (“up from 18,1380 in the year 2,000”).

Eighty miles an hour on THE 10

But the worst of all these charming towns was San Bernardino, 2,015,355. This city should castrate its road engineers.  Roads were constructed of concrete blocks and all buckled like tectonic plates actively creating mountains. Miles of New Jersey barricades extended to the edge of most areas under construction and traffic did not slow.  One huge trucker roared past us, squeezing us between him and those damn concrete barricades.  Yet another trucker blasted by then applied his Jake breaks, presumably because a small VW was blocking his path – and he wanted to terrify anyone in his way.

Digitus Impudicus

Despite it all, most folks who passed us — as we crept along pulling our Airstream — waved, though it was a strange wave lacking most all fingers — save one.  We waved back, often with great gusto.

The Vernacular

When we finally arrived in Indio, our destination for the night, the lady at the RV park said she understood the frustration. “The Five and those other highways,” she said, may be the nation’s most dangerous road section.”  (In California, all highways rise to such importance that they require the article “The.” The Five; The 210; The Ten — and so on.  In usage a native Californian might say: “Take The 210 to The Five, then stay dedicated… Such is the vernacular.)

Gated RV Park

The RV park where we’re now parked goes by the name of Shadow Hills and seemed to be ideally located to park our Airstream for a Thanksgiving visit to L.A. (population 9,862,049 in July 2008) where Janie’s brother and family live.  The park provides gated security and was a good safe place  to leave our Airstream while we enjoyed a three-day family get together.

Sad to say, but L.A.'s Jet Propulsion Lab is now reducing staff and may have been the one hope for an overpopulated planet, through space exploration -- and ultimate habitation..

Janie’s brother is a professor at USC and despite his usage of the vernacular, I’ve always been impressed. He’s also chairman of the Classics department and just returned from a fellowship at Princeton, but even more impressive to this ‘Ole Montana country boy: he likes to hike and he generally agrees with my politics.)

World’s Most Popular Pastime

Tomorrow Janie and I will return to Shadow Hills, hook up our trailer, and complete the drive to Anza Borrego, which means we have about four hours of driving left.  Once we’re south of Indio these massive populations centers will drop dramatically, but these insane centers of mankind will remain despite my prayers, and anyone who wants proof that 7 billion (official tally about 30 days ago) earthlings may be too much for planet earth to sustain need only drive through Bakersfield, Delano…  San Bernardino.  They’re really not isolated enclaves, but ones that virtually sprawl, one spilling over and onto the other.

Many agree that the world’s biggest problem is overpopulation, but just try and find a politician who will listen.  After all, who would try and curtail the world’s most popular pastime.

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THIS TIME FOUR YEARS AGO:

*Global Warming

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The beauty of fall helps minimize Airstream aches

©Bert Gildart: For the past ten days we’ve been in Eugene, Oregon, contending with  problems that seemed to just keep mounting.  Resolution, however,  has restored our faith in humanity.

Last month we discovered that the front panel on our new Classic Airstream was developing “waves.” At first Airstream at the Jackson factory in Ohio said it was our fault because we applied too much pressure with our Hensley Hitch to the “A” Frame of our Airstream. Baloney, we said, and  as the facts begin to emerge the factory center relented, eventually offering to provide a panel.  Then George Sutton of Sutton RV in Eugene offered to provide 1/3 of the labor still leaving me with a $500 bill.  The item was warranted, but if part of the blame was mine, then I thought the 1/3 split was fair. (More on this in a moment!)

But about the same time that we discovered problems with the pride and joy of our travel lives we were also trying to close on the sale of a rental house we owned.   All went well until the last week when the buyers began to vacillate.  Eventually we closed but money matters are never easy, especially when legal considerations must be finalized from the road.

Compounding the above were unexpected health concerns, and when we got to Oregon Janie’s doctor called saying the reading on the biopsy of a small growth showed melanoma.  Two days later he again called saying that his diagnosis was correct but that the imperatives were not so urgent because growth was “in situ.” Nevertheless, he said the growth must be removed, meaning we either had to fly back home — or find a board-certified dermatologist while on the road.  That may seem easy, but it required half a dozen calls over the period of several days before a doctor in Salem, Oregon, agreed to take on a new out-of-state patient.

CANCER FREE BUT NOT GOOF FREE

Though Dr. Goodenberger’s schedule was overflowing he nevertheless took Janie in for consultation, and then immediately after for a 20-minute surgical procedure.  He told her he didn’t want her driving around having to try and find another doctor when so many doctors  might be on a Thanksgiving vacation.  God bless that man, for my bride is now cancer free and good to go!

Nevertheless, all these problems seemed to compound themselves, something stress always seems do. Coincident with all the above my laptop computer crashed while I was trying to complete a deadline on a story, I spilled coffee on the rug of  our new Airstream; I left my credit card at a filling station, and then when American Express said they’d overnight me a new card I gave them the wrong address…

A loose propane bottle I’d placed in the back of the truck to be filled slipped and broke one of the windows in our topper. Crap;  oh, double damn crap! (I’m sure that’s what I said.)

That brings us up to yesterday, and because Mr. Sutton had initially offered to pay 1/3 of the problem, and because his service department had provided us with such great service, even allowing Janie and me to camp in our Airstream in their lot as repairs were being made, Janie and I bought two huge pies from SHARI’S for all those good folks (Thanks, Josh, Brett, Noah, Thom, the tall bicycle rider, and others whose names I didn’t get).

Fall photography around Eugene provides escape from travel travails

We bought our favorites pies, a peach and an apple, and set them out on their table.  I was glad because Sutton’s service manager Thom Locke said George had, in fact, offered to cover my share of the repairs.  I’m hoping Mr. Sutton can reclaim from the Airstream factory some of what he provided. Whatever, I’m getting to know George and contend he was simply adding kindness to kindness. Regardless,  Janie’s doctor and the people at Suttons have all restored our faith in humanity and that’s a challenge, particular when on the road and when  life can at times seem so impersonal.

We’ll certainly be back.  And now, with a new credit card, a computer (I’m using Janie’s) that will soon be returned, and with our Airstream and health issues resolved – we’re off for another extended trip that we hope will soon be providing us with adventures equivalent to past adventures. Here are a few links to some of those travels: Nova Scotia, Airstreams and Kayaks, World Eskimo Indian Olympics, Dry Tortugas, Natchez Trace.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL!

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THIS TIME FOUR YEARS AGO:

*When It Snows in the Great Smokey Mountains

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©Bert Gildart: As we departed Montana two days ago, driving over Lookout Pass, the tamarack trees glowed in a way one seldom ever sees.  The species holds the distinction of being the only coniferous tree that sheds its needles.  This aspect of their biology creates a beauty shared by no other North American conifer.

For a few weeks each fall tamaracks cover the hill sides with their evanescent light, appearing for awhile like huge golden torches.

Properly described, the species is a deciduous conifer and in the fall, generally around November, needles of the tamarack turn to a rich yellow and then stay that way for several weeks.  But as the season progresses, the  gold coloration gives way to rich brown.  Eventually, virtually all the needles are excised from the tree and then they stand barren, waiting for spring when the cycle repeats itself.

But right now few species can claim more beauty.  True, the New England states have maples and birch that punctuate the landscape with their yellows and reds and the south its profusion rich berries, but I maintain that few settings can compare with Montana when tamaracks turn gold and when they in turn are back dropped with a fresh dusting of snow.

That’s the way it was the other day as we passed over Lookout Pass. The beauty of the scene prompted many to pull to the side of the highway for a lingering look, suggesting that some, at least, are still awed by the basic transformations of nature.

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THIS TIME THREE YEARS AGO:

*Sheep Wear Biographies on Their Horns

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©Bert Gildart: At the moment we are camped in a KOA just outside of Spokane.  We were bound for Sutton RV where we’re scheduled to have a few repairs made to our RV all covered by the warranty that came with our new Airstream.

Those who have followed will recall we had to purchase a new RV because of the extensive filiform corrosion sustained last winter as we traveled over Monida Pass.  From Suttons we will be heading to the warmth of the desert.Just prior to leaving I visited the Conrad Mansion in Kalispell to create images of one of Montana’s wealthiest families, the Conrads.

Because flash is not allowed in the mansion, I had visited with friends from Boise who are experts on the use of a technique called HDR, standing for “high dynamic resolution.”

The technique requires the use of a tripod and the bracketing of exposures of the same setting.  Typically, anywhere from three to six or more images are recorded of the same exact setting, then using a program such as Photomatrix, the images are superimposed one on the other – then merged.

HDR tends to create exaggerated colors; the trick is to control that tendency.

The theory is that in the course of taking multiple images one will have created the proper exposure for all elements in the scene ranging from the most extreme highlights to the densest shadows. This was my first attempt, but with lots of help from Todd and Jack (my companions on the recent trip to Wildhorse) I think I have made a good first start.  I’ll work on reducing some of the extreme colors, but have included them here because they show colors that might be useful in creating “Photo Art.”

Bedroom once used by Theodore Roosevelt and then by cowboy artist Charles M. Russell.

Not so incidentally, the image of the bedroom shows the bed and room in which both Theodore Roosevelt and Charles M. Russell stayed while visiting the Conrads.  Obviously these are Christmas scenes and hopefully my images have captured all the wonderful decorations staff at the mansion have displayed for the Christmas season. They helped me with ideas and with detailed explanations of the mansion’s history, and several of the images will most certainly be used in our book Montana Icons.  Glacier Icons will be in the warehouse of Globe Pequot December 15^th and ready at that time for nation-wide distribution.

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THIS TIME TWO YEARS AGO:

*Athabascan Fiddle Festival

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Don Fish explains significance of bison kill site.

©Bert Gildart:  Janie and I have been so extraordinarily busy that I have not had time to post on some of the many other exciting places we have seen this past month; and though we’re now back in  our OTHER home — catching up on other business matters — nevertheless, I want to post a few images of another place we highly recommend.

While in Great Falls we also visited what was known until recently as Ulm Pishkin State Park. Though little has changed, the site, now a contender for status as a World Heritage Site, is  known as First Peoples Buffalo Jump.

LARGEST OF BISON KILL SITES

Bison jumps are located all over Montana, but this is one of the largest of the prehistoric bison kill sites in the United States. A visitor center and interpretive trails tell the story of the people, the animals, and the landscape of the buffalo culture

Trails course throughout the park and Janie and I lucked out.  Don Fish, a Blackfeet Interpreter, was scheduled to lead a group of students, and teachers said they’d be glad to have us join.  As we hiked we learned from Fish that Indians used the area for over six-hundred years and that they would stampede buffalo to the edge of the mile-long cliff.  Though  bison might sense danger, by the time these beasts approached the lip of the cliff it was too late.

Bison rushing up from behind would force the front runners over the cliff, where they’d fall to their deaths.

SQUARE BUTTE ALWAYS INSPIRING

After hiking to the top of the cliff we then walked along the face, enjoying expansive views of not only the Rocky Mountain Front, but also of Square Butte, a setting that provided the famous Cowboy Artist Charles M. Russell as an inspiration for many of his paintings, to include several of Indians hunting buffalo.

Don Fish leads school group to top of mile-long cliff face; bison jump, showing drop of approximately 30 feet; burial site of Native Americans back dropped by Square Butte, a setting that appears in several of famed cowboy artist Charles M. Russell paintings.

I’ll soon be posting a few other blogs of Montana travel areas which we recently enjoyed, but rRight now we’re scurrying around trying to prepare for a lengthy trip in our Airstream.  We plan to leave before the snows descend much lower (it’s capping the peaks now) in the valley.  We intend to take materials we have gathered about Montana to the desert, where we’ll finish the essays for our book about Montana.

Hopefully we’ll be out of her by the first week of November.  We don’t want to ever again take the chance of a state truck thoughtlessly dumping magnesium chloride in such as way that it will blast our Airstream.  In fact, we don’t want to think about the subject of filiform corrosion, preferring instead to say focused on such incredible subjects as the First Peoples Buffalo Jump.

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THIS TIME FIVE YEARS AGO

*Valley Forge

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