Bird Woman Falls

©Bert Gildart: Falcon Guides, produced by Globe Pequot Publishers, has just released the first in a new series called “Pocket Guides,” in this case a Glacier National Park Pocket Guide.

Though the books are small, measuring about 5 ½ by 4 inches, they pack a great deal into the 91 pages-and I am pleased to say that Janie and I are not only the authors but also the photographers, having provided all but three of the book’s forty-plus photographs.

Because of their size, the books are not intended to be comprehensive, rather they are intended to provide a snapshot of the park’s history and natural history. To give you an example, we’re providing here a few paragraphs from the book, beginning with an overview. We’re also providing a few paragraphs about bears and about one of our favorite areas in Glacier National Park, specifically, Kintla Lake. In the Pocket Guide we detail all the fun you and your family can have there by launching a kayak.

PARK OVERVIEW

One of the crown jewels of America’s national park system, Glacier can be described with many superlatives: Inspiring. Breathtaking. Vast. Some 230 years ago, when the mountain range containing Glacier National Park was first seen by Europeans, adventurers were prompted to call this the “Land of Shining Mountains.”

Yet another applicable catch phrase could be the “Land of Glorious Adversity,” for contemporary scientists tell us that the park was born of fire, quenched by torrential rains, inundated by vast seas, forced upward by internal pressures, and then gouged by great continental ice sheets that came and went on at least four occasions. From this heritage, mountains were molded that reach up to touch the sky and cradle more than 200 lakes…

SURPRIZING A GRIZZLY BEAR

If you should surprise a grizzly bear, stay quiet and back away slowly, avoiding direct eye contact. Try to get off the bear’s trail. Never run or yell. Stop if your movements are upsetting the animal. Signs of bear agitation include swaying of the head, clacking the teeth, lowering the head, and laying back the ears. Keep your pack on in case of an attack, and then drop to the ground. Protect your stomach by assuming a fetal position, and cover the back of your neck with your hands. Don’t move until you’re sure the bear has left…

Startling a grizzly

KAYAKING KINTLA LAKE

Kintla Lake, located in the most extreme northwestern portion of Glacier National Park, is probably the park’s most remote lake that can still be accessed by a vehicle, and its isolation and tranquility make it an ideal place for kayaking. At one time the park permitted power boats on the lake, but that’s not the case anymore, so the setting’s peace and quiet will never be marred by the sounds of motors.

What’s more, on some mornings the reflections of Starvation Ridge, Starvation Peak (in Canada), and Long Knife Peak in Kintla Lake are so perfect, you can almost invert any resulting photo images you might take and not tell the difference…

Of course, each of these sections describes more about the park’s history, bears and activities. At $9.95 (plus a $2.00 handling charge), these glossy booklets would make ideal gifts or serve as an excellent introduction to the person who is passing through and wants a quick introduction to the park’s fascinating features. There are also sections on where to stay both inside and outside the park-and much, much more on Glacier’s natural history.

Kayaking Kintla Lake

Though this new Falcon Guide book can be ordered from Globe Pequot, you can also order it from us. As well, you can order another Falcon book from us–or from them–about the Flathead Valley, which they published last year about this time.

Glacier is a National Park we know well for I once worked here on a trail crew and as a park ranger. In upcoming blogs I’ll be describing a few of its other natural history and historic aspects, specifically the 75^th Anniversary of Going-to-the-Sun Road.

ONE YEAR AGO:

Last Year about this time, I made two postings: One was about Boating in Alaska , the other about the spectacular profusion of Arrowleaf Balsam Root, which promises to be abundant once again.

World’s Eighth Wonder?

©Bert Gildart: Though most of us have probably never heard of Burney Falls, Theodore Roosevelt, probably our most noted conservation president, pronounced the hundred-yard long lip with its thousands of plunging rivulets “One of the wonders of the world.”

Our acquaintance with this northern California park, known officially as McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park, was purely accidentally. Tired from so much driving we pulled off the Volcanic Legacy National Byway and into the park.

The park is located on the Modoc plateau halfway between Mount Shasta and Lassen Peak, and we should have suspected that any area located between two such spectacular areas would itself be spectacular.

WORLD’S EIGHTH WONDER?

Still, it was the camping that initially lured us there, for with the exception of but two other campers, we had the park all to ourselves. Maintenance people said that’s the way it is before Memorial Day and then again after Labor Day.

After setting up our Airstream, we walked to the overlook and began taking in the scenery. The park offered a 1.25 mile long nature trail, well laid out with interpretive signs posted along the way. Geological conditions, we quickly learned, converted the 50- to 60-foot wide stream into wide basaltic plateau over which millions of gallons of water dropped each day.

Hundreds of mini falls cascade over 130 feet

Though water from this falls was primarily confined to two major drops, still there were hundreds of other mini cascades. Together they created a resounding roar and then, as they splashed almost 130 feet into the pools below, a mist swept up and then drifted over the trail below.

TALUS SLOPE

From the pool, the trail paralleled the creek and passed a number of yet other features the park celebrated with interpretive panels. One area that stopped us short was a talus slope created from black basaltic chunks of rock. The sign said that the slope was the result of erosion of the softer strata and that eventually that erosion caused the lava layer to collapse, leaving behind the near-vertical talus slope that descends into Burney Creek. The slope provides mute testimony that once-in the geologic past-the falls existed here.

Talus Slope plunges into Burney Creek

Because it was spring in this part of the country, the trail was also lined with various species of vegetation now in bloom, most notably the greenleaf Manzanita, which in Spanish interprets as “little apple.” The species is fire resistant, and grows back quickly after a fire. However, it burns hot when ignited.

Several other species also flank the trail to include Mountain Misery (other names are bear mat and bear clover), and this is the northern extension of this species. Other species include Ponderosa, and there is a wonderful display of growth rings near the end of the loop trail. The tree was cross-sectioned and then historic dates included. Dates ranged from about 1500 and ended with the inauguration of President Reagan.

Manzanita or "Little Apple" flank trail

Unfortunately, travel obligations restricted us from staying more than a day, but if we could make it through the snow, sleet and rain we’d heard awaited us on several Oregon Passes, we’d be with good friends Sue and Eric Hansen , who live in Corvallis, Oregon. They’re the couple we rendezvoused with in Death Valley.

WHAT THE HECK IS IT?

Obviously, we made it, then parked in their drive. Sue had a wonderful dinner prepared and then, today, we drove the final 40 miles to Salem, Oregon, site this year of the Northwest Outdoor Writer’s Conference. I’ll be working hard the next day or so preparing for a “What the Heck is it Contest” Janie and I provide for the several hundred participants.

The contest is for the enjoyment of all NOWA members and is intended to test their knowledge about outdoor items-and sometimes our ability to pull the wool over their eyes. Some of the more challenging (but fun) items from the past have included the bacculum (sorry, but you’ll have to look this one up) from a walrus, wolf scat; and ticks preserved in a bottle of formaldehyde. As well, the contest includes the usual assortment, such as fishing lures, and cartridges of various calibers.

This year we believe we also have a good assortment (in part because of much help from Eric) and will share with you our presentation–but not until after it’s over. Sorry, but if you check back in I’ll share with you items which are now classified as Top Secret. In fact, I’ll even have photographs of a few of our more interesting selections.

Earth Mother

©Bert Gildart: Today, we are departing the Sedona area, bound for Oregon, but with several intermediate stops along the way. But before departing, I want to share one of the most remarkable Petroglyph sites Janie and I have ever seen.

Let’s entitle the panel “Earth Mother,” and, also, let me say that some of the images are Paleolithic, dating back over 10,000 years. The panels are, according to archaeologists, some of the best preserved ruins and examples of Indian art in North America.

Earth Mother panel is set in the Sedona area and is managed by the Forest Service. The setting is referred to as the Palatki Red Cliffs Heritage Site and it contains not only the panels, but ruins–and a site referred to as the Agave Roasting Pit.

Unfortunately for us, the tour has become so popular that there were not enough interpreters/overseers to lead us to the roasting site.

In order to visit the area, prior reservations are necessary and the reason is apparent. According to Spence, one of the volunteer guides recently retired as a geologist, there’s not a day that goes by when someone has to be told not to touch the panels. Worse, if left unattended, small children duck under the restraining ropes and some have even tried to draw on the historic Petroglyphs.

PROTECTION NECESSARY

“Just the other day,” said Spence, “I had two incidents. In one case I had to ask a ten-year old-in front of his parents-if he had $10,000 for the fine he would have to pay if he wrote on the panels. ‘That’s a whole lot of video games,’ I finally told him.’ Finally, his parents interceded.”

Animals born of Earth Mother

Spence said that the other case involved an elderly man who obviously didn’t want to be here kept leaning against the walls of the ruins. “Finally,” Spence said, “we asked him to leave.”

ANIMALS ARE CREATED

Interpretation of the one major panel begins with Spence pointing with a small beam light to the Earth Mother. “She’s giving birth to an animal, and many other types of animals are standing around.” (Earth Mother is in the upper right hand corner of the image just above.)

Spence continues, asking if we can recognize any of the species. He says that when he looks closely he sees deer or antelope, wolves, coyotes, and birds of various types.

VIPs provide informative talks

From the Mother Earth panel, we moved on to a wall with pictographs, which are created from actual pigments. Petroglyphs, on the other hand are created by pecking.

VIPS PROVIDE SIMULATING TALKS

The pictographs were significant because these were ancient, “perhaps 1,000 years old,” said Spence. The volunteer continued, saying the dates of pictographs can be more easily obtained using radio carbon dating techniques. In the year 2000, a black charcoal pigment yielded an age of 1080 from the Earth Panel.

Charlie Steger and Palatki Ruins

But from yet another room known as the Grotto, aging techniques date some of the pictographs back to the Paleo Period, which goes back 11,000 years. Truly, images from these panels are a national treasure…

MOVING ON

Right now I’m scrambling to complete this post. I need to have time to pack and depart Dead Horse Ranch State Park by the early morning deadline. We hope to be near Death Valley Junction by day’s end, which is not far from Las Vegas. We’re on our way to the Northwest Outdoor Writer’s Conference, this year to be held in Salem, Oregon. We have about five days prior to the conference, so we’re not pressed for time.

As always we’re looking forward to seeing old friends and learning what we can from the various speakers. The local chambers always have hosted trips so generally I get a story or two each year from these conventions.

Note: Here’s a posting from about this time last year. Let it demonstrate the improvement I’ve made this past year in laying out my posts–and also remind you that Earth Day is just around the corner. (Click here )

A Panel full of stories–and cranes

©Bert Gildart: Certainly one of the most remarkable petroglyph sites we’ve seen in years was the one we saw yesterday at the V-Bar-V Heritage Site.

Once a former ranch the site is located just south of Sedona and is managed (and protected) by the U.S. Forest Service. Adjacent to the site is a lovely campground located along Beaver Creek, and most assuredly the small river was used by the Sinagua, the same group who constructed Tuzigoot.

The site is unique not only because of the huge number of glyphs all contained in one area (a total of 1032 petroglyphs have been identified), but because of some of the figures. Heron-like figures adorn the main panel, but why they dominate is a mystery.

Yet another aspect we appreciated at the V-Bar-V is that there has been little vandalism, and perhaps that is because the ranch was privately owned and not accessible by the general public, a small segment of which has destroyed our antiquities so the majority can no longer enjoy them. As Janie and I have traveled the country we find that is more often the case than not. It’s part of the reason that the Antiquities Act of the early 1900s was necessary. The other reason was to stop the massive pot collecting, rampant at the time. But regardless of how this site came to retain its integrity, it is here now and its features can be studied.

PAIRED FIGUERS

Though many other unique features characterize these panels, one of the most interesting is the paired figures. Look at the

Unique paired figures, probably turtles

first image carefully, and you’ll see two humans and two large female figures. The panel also contains paired turtles, and I’ve included an example here.

Though all these features are interesting in themselves perhaps the most significant feature of the panel is the presence of symbols that appear to be the sun. Linked to those is a long line and some archaeologist believe the line represents a solar calendar. An entire interpretive booklet discusses the possibility and because light touches the line on the day of the summer solstice, the conclusion is accepted by most.

TIME TO PLANT CORN

Fortifying the hypothesis is the further evidence that the Sinagua were an agricultural based society. It’s an easy step then to say that when the sun strikes the line on the third week it June, it was time to plant corn.

Both Janie and I thoroughly enjoy exploring ancient cultures, and as we’ve discovered, the Sedona area with all of its red rocks was apparently a haven for these land based cultures. Why they departed is the never ending question, but apparently by 1500 or so, they were all gone, absorbed perhaps by other tribes.

V-Bar-V is well preserved site

Though the V-Bar-V Heritage Site may contain the greatest concentration of petroglyphs in the Verde Valley, there’s yet another site called Palatki that also has interesting examples of Indian rock art, and that is our destination for today.

Promised Land

©Bert Gildart: It’s hard to say which of the many experiences our group enjoyed was my favorite, but I guess it would be the opportunity to photograph Rich, Sadira (who writes a very interesting blog ), and Janie strung out along a canyon wall that embraces part of “The Promised Land.”

The Promised Land is one of the many canyons that surround Prescott, but it is one that Rich Charpentier particularly likes. Rich is a rock climber and photographer, and for him the area contains much promise. Look at his blog postings from this area, and you’ll see why.

Photography is also the reason I liked the area, and when Rich, Sadira and I looked down on the canyon below where Janie was waiting, the thought occurred to me that it would be particularly dramatic if my two companions would join Janie-after we explored the cave that had lured us to the overlook.

Rich had long ago noticed the cave we explored and as we entered it we all thought what a great place it would be for mountain lions, and Rich said that in the year he’d been exploring the Promised Land he’d seen much sign of their presence.

PETROGLYPHS & NOMADIC HUNTERS

But today, there were no mountains lions, just hard blackened walls engrained from long years of past prehistoric use.

More than likely, this was a cave Native Americans had once used, and there was evidence, too, in the canyon below of their former presence. Throughout the long canyon, here and there we saw that a heavy patina covered the walls, providing a perfect surface for rock art.

Sure enough, as we wandered we found all sorts of strange images, some that could have represented the sun or the sinuous impression of reptiles. But more typically, we found the faded carvings of deer. In some instances we saw walls depicting entire herds of deer. What a promised land this must truly have been for past nomadic hunters.

Rich photographed the impressions, and because his images turned out so well, I refer you to them . I also refer you to Rich’s blog because I think he is a person to be much admired.

Dark cave with blackened Walls

Certainly I admire him because we both share similar environmental concerns-and, of course, because we share a love of Airstream Trailer travel.

A MORE SATISFYING LIFE

But in the past few years, Rich has made some major life transitions and emerged successfully, something not everyone seems to do. Until a few years ago, Rich was in charge of wireless communications for AT&T. But for a variety of reasons the life style of a high roller went contrary to his grain and he gave it up, electing instead to travel the country until he found Prescott-and a more simple style of life.

Today, he is extraordinarily contented man. He holds a less stressful job that allows him time to pursue his other passions. Those passions now include photography, rock climbing and scheduled magazine columns about electronic gadgets–and how they can simplify our lives.

A most contented man

From time to time he also voices his concerns for the future of our environment, thoughts we all shared as we hiked the Promised Land. Because the area provided such dramatic diversity, it certainly was a promised land, one that lived up to its name not only because of its fabulous features but because of the companions who had helped make it so interesting.

(Posting from last year about this time: Spring Awakening .)

Armed escort

©Bert Gildart: Was the trip Janie and I took in Organ Pipe National Monument in a van flanked by an armed escort to a closed section of the park known as Quitobaquito dangerous?

Nothing on our trip would lead us to believe that it was. However, upon completion of the half-day adventure one of the park naturalists scurried up to Janie and me and asked us if the photographs we took of park rangers with their M-16’s might be used in a magazine?

“Please,” she said, “though we think it would be OK, not everyone appreciates all our rangers are trying to do. We don’t want to jeopardize their lives in any way. If you intend to use them, please mask their faces.”

Obviously, that’s what we’ve done for the sake of this blog–and will do for a story I will soon be writing for the Affinity Group, which produces many publications to include Trailer Life and Motorhome. Not only did I place “+’s” over their faces, but I blurred the images–and did not use the closeup images I’d taken. Nevertheless, you can almost feel, I believe, the level of protection they’re providing our group of about 10. As we walked around the springs surrounded by dense vegetation, the rangers preceded us, checking the trail for tracks and for the actual presence of illegals.

The question, of course, is why is all this necessary?

“IT’S PROBABLY AN OVERKILL”

The park is launching a pilot project, trying to open portions of the park that have been closed since 2002, when Ranger Chris Eggle was savagely killed by a drug lord. “If one of our visitors were harmed,” said Superintendent Lee Baiza, who graciously gave me a few minutes of his time yesterday afternoon, ” it could ruin this park.”

Still Superintendent Baiza wants to reopen sections of this park that have been closed and he obviously thinks the time is right–that essentially it is safe. “It’s probably an overkill,” said Baiza, “but we just don’t want to leave anything open to chance.”

Quitobaquito

Quitobaquito is the right place to reopen first, and for Baiza there may even be a few personal reasons. Baiza recalls when he once worked along the border in the late 1990s. He’d found some downed barbed wire, and some kids from Mexico came over, then an old man. “We all talked and had a very relaxed time. Of course, times are different now, but wouldn’t it be nice to go back to those days?”

WHY QUITOBAQUITO?

Baiza’s reasons, of course, go deeper than pleasant conversation. Bottom line, it has to do with the resource and with we visitors who are entitled by mandates to see those resources. Quitobaquito, then, was the perfect spot.

Historically, the springs provided a watering hole for Native Americans, for Spanish explorers and for the ranchers who later bought the land. Quitobaquito is also where an endangered species of pup fish has carved out a living for thousands of years. And, as we learned from our morning’s trip, it is simply a beautiful area where cotton wood trees grow large and where birds of all descriptions congregate.

30 mile-long fence helps

It is an area that visitors should be able to see, something with which Mr. Baiza most emphatically agrees. In fact, Baiza, who transferred here last May from Petrified Forest National Park to assume the position of superintendent in Organ Park, so fervently believes that park visitors should see the area that he has pushed forward a trip that may be one of the most unique in North America.

Baiza refers to the original mandates of the national park service, noting they stipulate that the park’s resources must be protected and that they shall be made available to visitors. That is what Baiza is attempting to do, but the manner, of course, is certainly unique. In fact, it may be the only place in the United States where visitors see some of the park’s spectacles accompanied by an armed escort–all preceded by an area patrol.

LEVEL OF PROTECTION

Prior to our departure, the border patrol canvassed the same dirt road our group would later drive–and hike. After assuring the area contained no illegal immigrants, visitors then loaded into a van, and it was flanked by a border patrol and rangers in vehicles who were armed with M-16’s. These are heavy duty guns, used in Vietnam. But this is serious business, and what makes it particularly dramatic is that we weren’t exploring sections of some country that bears us ill will, rather we were exploring one of our own national parks.

“You’ve hit on the reasons,” said Baiza, “when I asked him what would happen if marijuana were legalized and if illegal immigrants were offered work passes. “That’s at the root of our problem, and we hope the fence we’ve just constructed will take care of part of the problem.”

Endangered pup fish

The fence Baiza is referring to now runs along the southern border of Organ Pipe. It parallels Highway Two that also runs parallel to the Organ Pipe border but on the Mexican side. Previously, drug dealers could drive into the park in four-wheel drive vehicles and, then, because the park is so remote, they could easily drive on, thereby conducting their own illegal activities but also leaving tracks in the desert that will require centuries to heal. Baiza hopes the fence will solve part of that problem, and points out that the upright fence posts are sunk deep into the ground and are so close together that a vehicle can not enter. But that doesn’t stop foot traffic, and that’s a problem Baiza hopes will be controlled with increased surveillance. Presently, thousands of illegal use some part of this 30-mile long border each year to gain access into the United States.

Baiza says that he doesn’t know what the future holds, though he is doubtful if visitors will ever be able to make private trips to Quitobaquito as they could prior to 2002, the year drug pushers killed Chris Eggle.

WHAT DOES FUTURE HOLD?

But whatever the future holds, Quitobaquito is certainly worth a visit in whatever manner is deemed necessary. Not only does it contain the beautiful springs, but it also contains the Senita, a cousin to the organ pipe that has unique characteristics and grows nowhere else in the United States except in Organ Pipe.

Ocotillo added to day’s beauty

The area also contains all the other beautiful examples of the Sonoran Desert, and when we visited, Ocotillo was blooming in profusion. Like all else at Quitobaquito it gladdened our day, and made us appreciative of all the National Park Service is doing to protect the resource and make available those resources to us visitors.

We recommend the trip and believe anyone who has faith in what is probably an overkill of protection, take in the half day adventure–and then write your representatives and let them know you support the park’s efforts. Tell them you hope they will continue to provide the funding necessary to help resolve this national disgrace. Tell them drug lords and illegal immigrants should not dictate visitor access to national treasures.

Twin Peaks Campground and mountains in Mexico

©Bert Gildart: Last year about this time we camped for almost a week in Organ Pipe National Monument. Subsequent to our stay I wrote several magazine stories, and posted a number of blogs that focused on the park’s beauty, but also on its tragic problems. We’ve returned again because this is one of the nation’s premier desert parks–and because we’re curious to see what new procedures have been implemented to enable the American people to continue enjoying Organ Pipe. For the most part, we’re delighted with our findings…

SPECTACLAR CAMPGROUND SETTING

Immediately adjacent to Twin Peaks campground in Organ Pipe National Monument, there is a mountain you can climb that enables you to peer over the assortment of enthusiastic campers–as well as the Cubabi Mountains about five miles to the south. The mountains are in Mexico and it is this proximity that continues to create an immense problem for National Park Service managers. Not only do the lovely mountains flank the park but so does a 30-mile long boundary, and unfortunately, it is extremely difficult to patrol. Each year literally thousands of illegal immigrants stream across this border, some seeking work and a better way of life.

Others, however, are desperately pushing drugs, and they are creating a dangerous situation in Organ Pipe National Monument, a situation the park is struggling to remedy. In some cases, they’ve closed sections of the park or are offering special trips so that visitors can enjoy the special heritage the monument preserves.

Visitors saw Gila Monsters on Ajo Mountain Drive

“National Park Administered areas are the keepers of our American heritage,” says Andy Fisher, Chief of Interpretation. “If you want to learn about legal immigration and your possible ancestors, you go to Ellis Island. If you want to learn about the Civil War, you go to Gettysburg. Likewise, if you want to learn about the organ pipe this is the only place in the nation where you can do that. That’s not easy to do right now, but our new superintendent is doing everything possible to make it possible to see all this park has to offer.”

FLORAL DISPLAYS

Fisher continues, emphasizing that it is in fact, safe to visit much of this desert park. “Flowers”, she says, “are at their peak right now, and there are few places you can go to see such immense spreads of brittle brush. And the Ajo Mountain Range is always spectacular.” Fisher continues, saying that those areas that are not safe are either closed or can be visited with an organized and armed patrol.

“The superintendent is working hard,” says Fisher, “to make the entire park accessible once again to all visitors. Right now the task is not easy and is exemplified by a trip now being offered to one of the park’s most beautiful springs, Quitobaquito.

Cholla, now in bloom

The springs is home to the pupfish, a tiny species that provided the students of Ajo, Arizona, with a project that won Ms. Fisher the prestigious Freeman Tilden award, something I learned not from Ms. Fisher, rather from Sharon Genaux, one of the park volunteers, who is proud of her association with the innovative naturalist. “Andy won first place regionally and second place nationally. Quite an accomplishment.”

The award was for a project Ms. Fisher spearheaded. Between 2005 and 2007 she and students from the junior high school at the nearby settlement of Ajo recreated a refugium at park headquarters that replicates the habitat of Quitobaquito Springs. Here, pupfish from the springs can easily be observed in a small pond at the park’s headquarters. “Should something happen to the pup fish at Quitobaquito,” said Genaux, “it’s now preserved here.”

Of course, seeing a replication is not the same as seeing the springs in real life and that is what the superintendent is now struggling to provide. Quitobaquito is located in the park’s southwestern quadrant, within a few hundred yards of the Mexican border. Safeguarding the area is not an easy task and requires an early morning, predawn patrol by a number of rangers. Once the area has been deemed safe from drug runners or illegal immigrants, each week those who have signed up can board a park van and travel with an armed escort to the springs, about 25 miles distance. With time the park is hoping that the installation of the new fence and better patrol will permit more traditional visitation.

Mexican poppy, now in profusion

Though visiting the springs is certainly a park highlight, if you miss the opportunity (and it is limited to about 12 individuals a week) the park still offers an incredible display of natural history features–all safe to explore or attempt to find. The Gila monster is often seen, and right now wildflowers are at their peak. As well, many species of cacti are now starting to bloom–all of which helps to make Organ Pipe National Monument one of the nation’s premier desert parks.

I’d also like to report that I am signed up to visit Quitobaquito next Tuesday, and if it all works out, I’ll have much more to report.

Sunset For the Joshua Tree?

©Bert Gildart: Sunset for the Joshua Tree? That’s what climate scientists say may be the fate for this magnificent species, a member of the lily family that also influences the lives of at least 25 other species.

In other words, if current warming trends continue then global warming will have taken its toll not only on the glaciers of Glacier National Park, the pika of the Great Basin, the polar bear of the Arctic–but also on the Joshua Trees of this diverse California national park.

“It’s happening all ready,” said a park naturalist yesterday at the park’s visitor. “Joshua Trees require cool temperatures in order to flower and set their seeds. Because of global warming, they’re not getting it.”

The National Park Service goes further, and has published an agency-wide brochure. In the brochure, they say that human activities contribute substantially to the current warming trend.

HUMAN ACTIVITY & GLOBAL WARMING

“Most of the observed increase in globally averaged temperatures since the mid-20^th century is very likely (90% certainty) due to the observed increase in anthropogenic greenhouse gas concentration… Carbon dioxide levels in the atmosphere today are higher than they’ve been in over 650,000 years.” The brochure attributes such statements to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change–and its exhaustive research.

Though I’ve attempted to maintain an open ear, living as we do (when not 3/4-quarter timing it in our Airstream) close to Glacier National Park, that has been difficult, and this past summer posted a blog on a hike to Grinnell Glacier Overlook. The hike provides a hard to refute visual example that global warming is real. I realize, of course, that there are many who do not dispute global warming, saying that it is a natural cycle and not human caused.

But judging from the publication of this government brochure and the fact that certain leaders initially attempted to squelch such materials–but now accept it–it appears as though the debate may be over. Certainly the issue won’t be much of a debate among the presidential candidates, as the way the campaign has now shaped up, all (regardless of party affiliation) agree that global warming is real–and that we can control it.

“THERE IS HOPE”

As Janie and I have hiked trails in Joshua Tree National Park, it certainly does appear as though some of the trees are experiencing stress. In some cases portions of trees have died, and whether this is cause and effect, I’m not enough of a desert ecologist to be able to say.

Under stressful conditions trees don’t always produce blossoms

All I know is that park naturalist are saying that trees are dying. But they also say there is some hope: “Regardless of their [global warming factors] causes,” says the brochure, “we must do what we can to manage these impacts, and adapt to the new circumstances they bring.” The brochure concludes it thoughts, saying, “Perhaps the same wisdom that has preserved our heritage in the past can guide us in making choices for the future.”

Some, now blooming in profusion

By inference, I take it that if we group together and insist on responsible action from our leaders that it may not, in fact, be sunset for the Joshua Tree.

(Note: For those who may have attempted to communicate with us, Joshua Tree has no cell phone or Internet access.)

Mitchell Caverns

©Bert Gildart: Photographing caverns can present an immense lighting challenge, and Mitchell Cavern, a California state park literally engulfed on all sides by the Mojave National Preserve, is no exception.

The problem is even more acute if you are trying to include people in your scene, and the only way I’ve found that works somewhat successfully is to place your camera on a tripod, attach a cable release and then set your camera to “Slow Sync,” available on my Nikon D-300 and on most advanced digital cameras. Light from the flash will be adequate to illuminate visitors, but not the huge cavern. You’ll then need a long exposure to properly record all those stalagmites and stalactites illuminated only by the low lighting provided by the caverns.

PHOTOGRAPIC SPECIFICS

Here, then, is the way the camera functioned in response to those settings. In my case, proper exposure for the cavern illuminated with fixed cavern lights was F-5.6 at about five seconds. First, then, the camera used F-5.6 and the quick high-speed blink of the strobe as the proper exposure for people–and then left the aperture open. Then, because of the slow sync setting the camera remained open for five more seconds and used the cavern lights for the rest of the exposure. The result is the image shown here.

Tour guide for today’s outing was a delightful speaker named Myke Ray. Because weather was not ideal, he prefaced his talk from a sheltered area explaining the importance of tiny calcium-producing micro-organisms that provided the foundations for the cave millions of years ago. Tectonic plate activity subsequently took the layers upon layers of calcium and thrust it into the right position for subsequent cave formation. Ground water did much of the rest.

The result today is a series of spectacular caverns with individual formations that Myke helped embed into our memories with names familiar to us all. “See South America?” he said. Or, “see the giant rooster?”

He was referring, of course, to the orientation of the various stalagmites and stalactites and what, with imagination, you might easily envision–and then easily recall in the future.

SNOWY DESERT DAY

The tour took about 1-1/2 hours. Temperature inside the cavern registered 65 degrees and it was a measurement on everyone’s mind. Outside, the Mojave Desert which typically averages about 70 at this time of year, was asserting her temperamental side and had taken a drastic turn downward.

Snow engulfs Hole in the Wall VC

Today, Palm Sunday, outdoor temperatures in and around the preserve registered about 32. Snow was falling and the wind of several days ago had not yet abated, so it was a good day for spelunking.

However, these outrageous weather conditions must come to a halt, and after complaining to the weatherman, have learned he will accommodate us visiting Montanans and that by mid-week temperatures will be back in the low 80s.

That, Sir, will be more like it–and we thank you for your cooperation.

(Alert: Here’s a posting from ABOUT one year ago.)

Camped in austere beauty

©Bert Gildart: For much of the time, Mojave National Preserve provides a 1.6 million acre expanse of desert beauty, a place where total and complete silence backdrops its assortment of volcanic rock, Joshua trees, and tiny desert plants that strike you as brave for what they at times must endure.

What they endure is the beast part of this posting, and what has driven both Janie and me to the point of frustration. Three days running now (with absolutely no cessation!!), the winds have swept down from between Table Top and Wood mountains and pounded our trailer–relentlessly!

At times gusts approached 60-miles per hour and as they blew, they shook our Airstream, which groaned in pain. Because the awning over our slide-out flapped violently we pulled in this (our slideout) extension of our living space. Not all other RVers we saw followed suit, but that’s their problem. They may not mind paying the replacement cost inherent in the fabric of their slide-out’s awning, but we do.

DEFLECTING WIND

Another thought is that we remained two days at Hole in the Wall Campground while many others left, and that could be because our aerodynamic trailer better deflected the wind.

Like the low-growing wildflowers that so characterize this desert.

Of course, Dick and Linda, our new friends from our last posting remained, but in their 30,000 pound motorhome, they were rock solid.

But it’ all relative, after all, and the winds have greatly affected us. They’ve prevented sleep–totally–and that’s been particularly frustrating as three days ago, I picked up a horrible desert cold manifest by a persistent night-time cough that was at times violent in itself.

Low growing, to endure the beast

Wind! Cough! Janie has gotten absolutely no sleep and neither have I. We recall that for prairie women, wind was the bane of their existence, creating insanity in the extreme. Now I can empathize, and the result is that this morning, I am writing this blog from the KOA in Needles, about 40 miles from the preserve. In a hollow; protected from the wind!

As a result, we both slept well last night, and this morning, my cold is more the curse recalled from a bad dream. That’s the beast of Mojave National Preserve, what follows is part of this park’s staggering beauty.

DICK‘S TRAIL

All that came on the heels of several more informative days of exploring the requited beauty of Mojave National Preserve, most notably a day with Dick Pfeifer who took us on a tour of a trail he has laid out. As Dick says, “The idea was to find old trails, old roads, old cattle trails and then link them together. Because the trail is to be six miles long, we added new segments. That’s where I came in.”

"Built by the VIPs"

Because the trail does not yet have a name, I’m calling it Dick’s Trail. Dick says that’s OK, but that “VIP trail” might be a more acceptable Park Service name. In this time of great fiscal hardship, some way of recalling the contribution of Volunteers in the Park might be appropriate. Appropriate allusion would have a ring of historic importance, similar to “Built by the CCC Boys,” but in this case, “Built by the VIPs.”

Not only has a VIP laid a trail, but as well the trail will actually be constructed in the next few weeks by a group of national volunteers Dick will pick up in Las Vegas. When completed, the trial will begin and end at the campground and will thread through geological features unique to this park. It will pass a Ryolite cliff from which Indians once gathered shards to create arrowheads. Chards came from a band of opalite in the cliff of ryolite.

DIVERSE FEATURES

The trail will also pass an old Native American midden and will acquaint hikers with some of the park’s many floral spectacles. It will introduce you to a few techniques ranchers once used to maximize water retention. Finally, it will take you back to your campground via the already established and very popular “Ring Trail.”

In short, the roundtrip trail will provide insights into the natural history and history of this spectacular preserve, and you won’t have to do anything but depart your campsite, and then hike six glorious miles.

Holes are unique geological formation

Assuming my cold stays gone, tomorrow we’ll make a day trip back to Mojave Preserve. We’d like to see Dick and Linda and learn more about their summer plans which will take them near our home in Montana on their way to Alaska. In the meantime, there are some other things Dick and Linda have suggested we do to truly see all the beauty that characterizes this preserve–most of the time.

(Note: Rich Charpentier , an Airstream enthusiast, has been adding links to posts he made one year ago. I think it is a great idea and am following suit with one of our posts made ABOUT this time last year. I intend to do this frequently.)

Exploring backcountry roads, near Mid Hills Campground

©Bert Gildart: “Hold on,” shouted Dick above the rattle of the washboard road and the chatter now occurring inside the 4-wheel drive Jeep. “We’re about to board a roller coaster.”

Dick was referring to ribbon of sand and rock that ground its way through Carruthers Canyon and into the New York Mountains, where we hoped to find an old gold mine.

Janie and I were exploring California’s Mojave National Preserve–now with a delightful couple we had met in Hole In the Wall Campground, where they are based.

PARK VIPs

The couple was on one of their two days off, and more and more in this period of immense fiscal cuts to our national lands, the National Park Service is relying on the hours contributed by VIPs, or Volunteers in the Park.

Like most VIPs, Dick and Linda are retired, Linda as a high school guidance counselor and Dick from a job as an avionic technician and manager. Because of their life-long interest in camping (Dick was once a Scout Leader) the role is perfect, and the park is certainly getting their money’s worth from this couple! They’ve been in the preserve since January and will stay until mid April. Like many volunteers, they are “fulltimers,” basing themselves–full time–out of a motorhome. While working, they patrol the campground, clean up backcountry fire pits, and then one day a week are provided with a park vehicle to learn more about the area and to help clean it up. Dick has even volunteered to lay out a new hiking trail.

Our excursion to find a gold mine was not part of their work assignment, though they are allowed a little time simply for “area familiarization.” So we decided to call it work, even though we were exploring on one of their days off.

Preserve hosts huge Joshua Trees

“We’re working now,” joked Dick, as we passed through an extensive forest of Joshua trees. “Want to stop? Mojave’s got the most extensive forest in the world–and some of the country’s largest specimens.”

We stopped.

DETERIORATING MINES

Many stops later, we arrived at the Death Valley Mines, just off the Cedar Canyon road. Though a family once lived here, today the outbuildings are eroding. Nevertheless, Janie and Linda discovered about a dozen jars of pickled vegetables to include potatoes and cucumbers.

Old canning jars intrigue Janie and Linda

“Don’t think we’ll eat any of these,” joked the two ladies, looking at the corroded bottles.

As well as the general structure, an old grave marker at the base of a Joshua Tree is also eroding, but the inscription pecked into a piece of sheet metal is poignant and still legible. In part, the inscription reads:

In loving memory of husband Lee. May God be with you until we meet again.

Dick examines Death Valley Mines structures

Departing the mine we returned to the Cedar Canyon road, then traveled east. As we traveled we paralleled the old Mojave Road once used by explorers, trappers and army scouts. Among the list of notables were Jedediah Smith, John Fremont, and Kit Cason, among hundreds of others well known at the time.

The route is one I was particularly interested in learning about and both Linda and Dick wanted to explore it, too, though probably from their jeep. The road is still maintained and one of the more exciting back-country challenges is to drive all that still exists of the old route. It begins at the Colorado River proceeds west and then in about 20 miles enters the Mojave Preserve. From here it proceeds about 80 miles to Zzyzx–at the western edge of the preserve. The name is not an Indian name, rather it was created by a Dr. Springer who wanted a unique name, and his thought was that he could do so if he drew from the last letters in the English language. So far, he’s not had any competition.

Mojave Road

Though Janie and I have yet to travel to Zzyzx, Dick took time to drive to a segment of the old road, and it appeared as though it might challenge a biker because of the soft sand, and, so, I will be doing some more inquiring. The group of friends with whom I climbed Rainier (links: Rainier & Rainier ) last summer are now looking for a new challenge. “Seems like you’re looking for an adventure,” said Dick, “and not a slog. You may want to test it first in a 4-wheel drive.”

FAMOUS SHOOTOUT

Other stops we made include one at Government Holes. Here on November 8, 1925 is where Matt Burts and J.W. “Bill” Robinson, shot it out. Both were killed. Because the men had been professional gunfighters the shootout has become part of the colorful history of the Mojave Preserve. It was, according to all historic accounts, one of the last classical gunfights of the Old West.

The last excursion of the day took us into the New York Mountains, home too, for many former ranchers–most of whom have allowed the government to buy out their holdings. The road was bumpy, and Dick kept asking how we liked the carnival ride. “We like it,” said Janie,” between her “umphs.”

“Glad to hear that said Dick,” laughing a bit as Linda joined Janie in creating a chorus of “UMPHS.” Dick, who is justifiably proud of his jeep’s comfort, added that it was in part because of the deep shocks, three-inch lifts and the big tires. “Creates a softer ride,” he shouted as we bounced along.

New York Mountains

As we drove we also took time to enjoy more Joshua Trees, here on the verge of blooming; but our longest stop included a mile hike searching for an old gold mine. The mine was described as the Shelf Mine, and because we did find a huge shelf and the remnants of old mine diggings, we thought we were near. But the day was late, and so we departed.

Dick wasn’t disappointed and said as much. “Now, I’ve got a reason,” he said, “to return to the New York Mountains.”

“As if you really needed one,” we joked.

©Bert Gildart: Eighteen million years ago, geological forces created a landscape at Mojave National Preserve in California that exists no where else in the world.

World class geological formations

To better appreciate this condition the park has provided a trail that is unique in itself, called the Ring Trail. Because of the challenging conditions, grasps are needed to maintain balance as you scale a cliff that is honeycombed with holes that if reduced would resemble a huge wasp nest. Because of the features the trail provides in the course of a single mile, in the last two days Janie and I have now hiked it twice.

Ring Trail appropriately named

The bizarre landscape that is located adjacent to Hold in the Wall Campground resulted when rock and water were superheated to phenomenal ranges thought to have approximated 1800 degrees. That took place 18 million years ago, as first stated.

As pressures inside this gigantic pressure cooker of hard granitic rock built, they finally reached a point where they exploded, and when they did, water and rock were thrust into an much cooler surrounding. Almost instantly–within seconds, said the naturalist–the molten rock solidified, creating the pocked cliffs we see today. Wind, rain, heat and cold subsequently modified the honeycombed rock here and there adding holes.

Rings help Janie navigate defile

And, so, today, we have Hole in the Wall campground and an adjacent canon known as Banshee Canyon; and through it threads Ring Trail. Because of its rugged and unapproachable appearance legend says it has attracted such outlaw groups as the James gang. Not all researchers, however, agree. The most likely story is that Bob Holliman, a well known gunslinger of the time, retired his ways and turned homesteader.

The trail is a delightful one and along the way we saw petroglyphs, created by the Chemehuevi Indians. Shortly thereafter we came to a narrow gap in the wall that appeared challenging, but proved otherwise because of the rings provided by the national park. Because most prefer to ascend rather than descend the narrow defile most hike clockwise, meaning that you pull up rather than hanging down.

Ancient petroglyphs

The park has anchored two permanent series of rings into the sides of the narrow gap and they offer more grasp than do the rocks. The experience is just one of the many activities in which you can engage in this relatively unknown park, and because it appears as though each outing introduces new features, we may even hike it again.

Kelso Dunes and Airstream

©Bert Gildart: From our Airstream to the top of the Kelso Dunes is about 660 feet; not far, but the experiences that resulted from the climb were significant.

First, there’s the view that results once you have reached the crest of the dunes. But in this land of perpetual scenery that wows, perhaps even more astounding are the sands that are said to sing.

Though hiking distance is not great, I vastly under estimated the time I’d need to reach the top, for as you approach the crest the sand begins to slide, meaning that you may need two forward steps to advance over what might normally have required by a single step.

But for those interested in hearing the sands sing, sliding is precisely what you want. And that’s what happened.

WHAT MAKES THEM SING?

As I approached the crest, the sand began to slide–and the result was startling. Some have said they hear a booming noise and that’s what I heard. Because there was absolutely no other sound on the day of my climb, the booming might have been startling had I not prepared myself with prior research. Reading indicated the sound could be created by the rapid shear rate–the actual tearing of sand particles one from the other.

Visual Feast

Others, however, say the sound is related to the thickness of the dry surface layer of sand. When the sands slide, sound waves bounce back and forth between the surface of the dunes and the surface of the moist layer creating a resonance that increases the sound’s volume.

VISUAL FEAST

Though the sound was impressive I was not prepared for the visual feast that greeted me as I crested the dunes–third largest in the nation. It was late in the day and the lighting was particularly dramatic. Stretching before me were miles of rolling dunes, melding one into the other. In turn, they folded into mountain outliers and then–at last–into a major mountain range that could very well have been ranges within Death Valley, some 50 miles or more to the northwest.

Discovering Sand Stories

Though it took me almost two hours to make the 600-foot ascent, the return to the Airstream required little more than half an hour. There, I found Janie also enjoying the dunes, but in a slightly different manner. She was studying all the tracks in the sand left by nocturnal creatures.

And that’s a story all of its own.

©Bert Gildart: “Belly plants” are defined as: “plants that must be observed while lying on your belly to enjoy.” Because we are now camped in the Mojave National Preserve, plants that grow in this dry and sometimes blustery environment tend to be “belly plants.” They’ve acquired that low-hugging feature to help prevent desiccation.

Other survival features of such species include waxy stems and the production of tiny hairs that fringe a plant’s stem.

Though not all the species posted here are “belly plants” several are. Regardless, all are now blooming in this glorious spring of 2008, essentially because, according to a park biologists, of the abundant rain. “Best season we experienced since 2005,” said the researcher we meet at the Kelso Dunes, where we are now camped. The lady was researching bees unique to the dunes area, but stopped for a moment to visit.

Here are a few of the “belly plants” now flowering in the Mojave Desert.

Dune Evening Primrose

The DUNE EVENING PRIMROSE is a month early, according to the friendly biologist. It produces a beautiful white flower and those flowers are now dotting the base of the Kelso Dunes, which is, incidentally, the third largest in the nation. The flowers are quite fragrant. “As the plant dries out,” notes our reference book, Mojave Desert Wildflowers, “the stems curl toward the center and produce a characteristic ‘bird cage.’”

Verbena

One of the most beautiful plants is VERBENA, (and I hope I’ve I.D this plant correctly). From a photographer’s point of view the tiny repetitious flowers combine to create a nice pattern as does the slight curve formed by the individual flowers. We found the plant on a desert wash, which seems to characterize the habitat in which the species grow.

Desert Star

Finally, here’s an image of what truly is a “belly plant,” the DESERT STAR. The plant grows in clumps, which is yet another survival technique. Plants in clusters can more easily retain moisture.

All photographs of these plants were taken from a tripod, but because this particular plant grows so low, I had to dig several holes in the ground to adequately lower my camera. All these photographs, incidentally, were taken with natural light. However, because I think most close up photographs look better in subdued light, I inserted myself between sun and plant, so creating a shadow. As well, all photographs were taken at very slow shutter speeds (about 1/15 of a second) so that I could use tiny apertures (f-32) to enhance depth of field.

Exploring Salt Creek

©Bert Gildart: As RV enthusiasts Janie and I meet all types of people, and generally, we enjoy them all. That includes most motorcycle groups, but yesterday, we encountered a group at the Furnace Creek restaurant that no one appreciated. One small woman helped resolve the problem.

We–and many others–had been enjoying a quiet meal, when suddenly, the early morning silence was broken by a group dressed in black leather jackets. And they were loud!

One fellow was particularly obnoxious, yelling at his companions about how their Harley’s made mincemeat of Death Valley’s passes, and how, by God, they were going to tear up the valley’s other flank. What amazed Janie and me is that so many of the men and woman appeared to be respectful people–and perhaps some were.

QUIETED BY ONE SMALL WOMAN

This loud talk went on for about 15 minutes, and suddenly, a small elderly woman charged over to the most boisterous of the group. She asked him to please tone it down. In response, he shouted, “I will not be quiet!

She responded, furious by now, “Why don’t you just shut up!”

We were astounded, but her comment seemed to work, probably in part because all of the other patrons in the restaurant were focused on this Harley group. Nevertheless, one in their group, a middle-aged goateed man hollered out, “Hey, Charlie. You’ve been told. Guess you’d better quiet it down.”

Where, we wondered, was the manager of the Furnace Creek Restaurant?

When Janie and I departed we stopped by the lady’s table and I thanked her. “Wish I’d had your nerve,” I said.

“Yes,” added Janie, “thank you very much.”

Though most in the group remained quiet, the goateed man repeated himself. “Hey, Charlie (who by now was in fact subdued), hold it down over there. You’ve heard it again so you’d better behave!”

Amazingly Charlie remained quiet, embarrassed, perhaps, by the one small woman.

DESERT PUPFISH

For the past few days, the wind here in Death Valley has been howling, gusting at times to 40 miles per hour. Still, several days ago we enjoyed a wonderful hike along Salt Creek, home to an unusual specie, the Desert Pupfish.

Curious coyotes leaves tracks

Pupfish are not known to exist anywhere else in the world except for Death Valley and a few places near the park, which is what makes their survival in Death Valley so vital. Scientists believe that their ancestors lived 15,000 years ago in Lake Manly, a huge lake that once filled much of this valley. The lake’s legacy is now Badwater, and the Devil’s Golf Course.

Pickleweek, with segments to absorb salt

For several hours Janie and I hiked this stretch, and when we inserted our hands into the soil and tasted it, the land was salty; so was Salt Creek, which brochures say registers about seven percent, the same essentially, as our body. What’s more, the water was warm, and at 70°, it was too warm for most creatures. Nevertheless, Pupfish live-and thrive-here.

Though we have seen desert pup fish in the past, February is too early in the season, as most of the tiny fish lay huddled in the mud below the surface, save and secure from all but an occasional coyote. Perhaps that would be a a good place to relegate a few members of that cycle group.

Eric Hansen, photographer

©Bert Gildart: Several days ago I met Donald Nelson, another Airstream owner, who explained to me that I needed to clean my solar panels on an almost weekly basis. Fact of the matter is that I haven’t done so in about a month, thinking some of the rain we’ve had would take care of that chore for me. “Clean them now,” said Don, “and I’ll bet your output doubles.”

SOLAR PANEL ELATION

Apparently the retired electronics consultant knows what he’s talking about, for although only a small layer of dust covered my two 50-watt panels, wiping them clean raised the output from 3.1 amps per hour to almost 5.5 amps per hour. Because all this energy is free, I now stand by the gauge watching it stream in by the hour. Meanwhile I charge camera batteries, computer batteries, turn on lights–and am amazed the register bounces right back up to 100 percent.

Before any more time elapses, I want to mention again the thought that teaming up with another photographer stimulates creativity. While Eric and Sue Hansen were here, we explored many aspects of this premier desert park, possibly egging each on to work harder as photographers.

It also worked a bit with Sue, too, who called my bluff, saying sure, she’d descend to the bottom of Ubehebe Crater–and then climb back out. The name tells a little about the challenge. Ubehebe derives from a Native American word, “Tem-pin-tta-Wo’sah”, meaning Coyote’s Basket or Basket in the Rock.

UBEHEBE CRATER DESCENT

The “basket’s walls” are, indeed, steep, dropping 600 feet. The crater is 3,000 years old and is one of the most recent of a series of “marr volcanoes” to have occurred in this land now comprising Death Valley. Marr volcanoes occur when magma rises from the depths to suddenly come into contact with ground water. The sudden contact creates a flash of steam, which then expands. When the pressure on the surrounding rocks becomes too great, they explode.

Janie and I are familiar with this history from a book we once worked on about Death Valley. We had fun explaining what little we do know about the area to Sue and Eric who have never been here, but most of all, we had fun during our actual explorations, not the least of which was running to be the bottom of the crater-and then crawling back out.

Descending Ubehebe Crater

We’ll be in Death Valley for a few more days and then we’re heading for Mojave National Preserve, another park service managed area.

Petals obscure spots

©Bert Gildart: Though I doubt that the birds, the bears, and all the other wild things that inhabit the planet were put here for our purpose their presence does provide me with considerable satisfaction. But their existence provides even more pleasure when I discover some feature contained in one of these living things whose functionality is not immediately obvious, appearing more aesthetic than utilitarian.

Such is the case with the desert five-spot. Why, I have to wonder, does each of the purple petals contain a crimson spot, revealed only under certain conditions? Certainly, the combination is beautiful to behold, but the plant’s reluctance to reveal its inner nature is what makes them particularly interesting.

HINT OF INNER BEAUTY

Several days ago I found the species to which I’ve just alluded, though its petals were closed tightly, so its identification was not immedi